CRICKET SOUNDS NEAR KAI TAK

One of the images of the past is of a colonial official posted in the jungles of South East Asia, refreshed from splashing water over his lean white body at the large ceramic vat out behind the bungalow, dressed in off-duty garb (no tie), reaching for the tin of Rattray's Tobacco to fill his pipe. The day is over, cook is preparing curry, cup of tea, London newspaper three months late.

Ah, cricket, I see.

He settles in the creaky chair for a good long smoke.

Whisps of fragrant Latakia drift slowly out into the undergrowth.
Something with scales slips into the river.
Insects chatter.

The bugs are loudest just before darkness, the chickens for the curry far away from Foster Farms are always scraggly and benefit from a long stew with ginger, lemon grass, turmeric, and coriander, the only milk for the tea comes in a tin (condensed), and there is as always too much European politics in the paper. One article about Germany, one about France.


But cricket, at least, is timeless. And universal.

[A lawyer I know just won't shut up about it. Parsees love cricket.]


When Adrian was stationed in Hong Kong, he never once mentioned cricket on Facebook. And the pipe tobacco he smoked three years ago seemed to be Dunhill's Elizabethan mixture, mornings in front of the office in Central.

There actually is cricket in Hong Kong. It's largely a subcontinental affair.
Babar Hayat. Aizaz Khan. Nizakat Khan. Anshuman Rath. Kinchit Shah.

In all honesty, I am very glad that he did not talk about cricket, or any sport, for that matter. When I worked with Indians I heard enough about that.

But he hardly mentioned food, either.

In. Hong Kong.


Probably the most Hong Kong dish EVER is Shanghai Pork Chop Noodles (炸猪扒湯麵 'jaa jyu baa tong min'). Breaded, deep fried, served with a bowl of noodles and soup with mustard greens. There is no actual connection with Shanghai that I know of, but many "Shanghai" restaurants on the island and in Kowloon offer it. Perhaps it's the noodles (Yangchun Noodle 陽春麵 'yeung chun min') which are not the usual Cantonese preference.

Yangchun Noodles are very Shanghai.


Easy, too. Slightly thicker than usual wheat noodles, served in a broth made very simply with a little soy sauce, and if you are feeling fancy pork bones and chicken stock. Otherwise just hot water, soy, and a spoonful of lard stirred in for mouth-feel. Chopped scallions or chives strewn on top.
One or two drops of sesame oil are optional.

Being totally unorthodox, and a kwailo to boot, I usually do this with Kwan Miao noodles (關廟麵 'kwaan miu min') plus bacon grease and olive oil.

Fried porkchops, chicken cutlets, short ribs; all good.
Wiener schnitzel (维也纳炸牛排) also can.
And add a squeeze of lemon juice.
It prevents kidney stones.

Also hot sauce, of course.
Must have a sambal.
Sriracha.



I think I'll open a tin of Rattray's tobacco soon. It's been a while.




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