GACKED BALLS

For some reason I think of Lion's Head Meatballs as very Shanghai, along with a plate of braised eels. Now, Americans by and large avoid eels -- culinary ignorance and unfortunate stupidity -- but who doesn't like meatballs? Polpeta at Italian restaurants, gehaktbal in Dutch (hence the name of this essay, it's what my apartment mate referred to them as, when she saw the Netherlandish term), and 肉丸 ('yiuk yuen') in Cantonese establishments.

Rou wan.

Lion's Head Meatballs (獅子頭 'si ji tau') are comprised of nice fatty pork mince mixed with chopped shrimp (or crab powder) and egg white to bind, rolled into a ball larger than a baby's fist -- if it's a Dutch baby, that's plenty large -- up to a Guinea Pig in size, steam-simmered in a clay pot on a bed of small cabbages with a generous splash of sherry or rice wine and a jigger of soy sauce added. Turn up the heat fiercely toward the end to cook them well-done and reduce the liquid, serve in the pot.

I've rarely had it these in the last several years. There is little point in cooking something like this for oneself. And they are considered festive, often featured during New Years Eve dinners and on special occasions.

Yesterday I did not buy fatty pork. Instead, angled loofah and eggplant, plus ginger. Things that are simple and easy to cook, because when I get back from Marin on work days I don't want to spend much time in the kitchen.

You'll be happy to know that eels are also available in Chinatown.
Instead of Netherlandish "paling in 't groen", simply braise them.

Or do them with garlic, ginger, or black bean sauce.
Either way, flame them with sherry.
Goes great with rice.
And sambal.


And gacked balls.



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