CENTRAL DISTRICT EATING: THREE CHAMPIONS — 中環區的食坊三狀元

Though very modern, Central District  (中環 'jung waan') is a pleasant place early in the morning, when the sun is just up and the first light slants in to hit the buildings. It's nearly empty compared to mid-day, when the area is abuzz with people. Down near the Admiralty (金鐘 'gam jung') there is hardly any traffic. Autumn is probably the best time.
After strolling around, you might be peckish.
Esurient, even.


The Old Bank of China Building (中國銀行大廈 'jung gwok ngan hong daai haa'), located where Queensway / Queens Road (皇后大道 'wong hau daai dou') splits off into Des Voeux (德輔道 'dak fu dou') is a rather splendid edifice. It faces Chater Gardens (遮打花園 'che-daa faa-yuen') across the street, where Falun Gong (法輪功) rioted a few years ago. It is no longer the company headquarters, but merely a satellite. Still, it's imposing, and a suitable venue for an upscale establishment serving dim sum and jook. Which will cost significantly more than the Bay Area's finest Cantonese brunch.

About eighty dollars per person.

Yes, it's worth it.


中國會 ['JUNG GWOK WUI'] THE CHINA CLUB
13 Floor, Old Bank of China Building
Des Voeux Road No. 2A, Central District.
中環，德輔道2A，中國銀行大廈 13樓。

鎮江焗肉排 Spareribs braised with red vinegar.
香茜叉燒腸粉 Cilantro charsiu sheet noodle.
豆腐花 Silken tofu with sago and syrup.
脆皮炸子雞 Crispy skin fried chicken.
紅燒牛肋骨 Red-stewed beef ribs.
小籠包 Shanghai soup dumplings.
蟹子蒸燒賣 Crab meat siu-mai.
北京片皮鴨 Peking duck.
Etcetera.

I doubt that today's students parked out in the protests on Queensway have ever eaten there, though. It's a private club. And jayzus do they expect you to be properly dressed.

But not far away, and a pleasant walk before it gets hot, are a number of fine establishments well worth visiting, and considerably more affordable.

Head west on Des Voeux Road. You'll pass some great shopping till you get to Aberdeen Street, which is where you need to turn left and go up the steps one block to the corner of Wellington Street.
There's a very nice dimsummery here.


蓮香樓 ['LIN HEUNG LAU'] LIN HEUNG TEA HOUSE
160-164 Wellington Street,
Central District.
中環，威靈頓街160-164號。

Totally worth it. Expect to spend about twenty dollars U.S. per person, be prepared to wait during busy hours (so best come early), and bring an appetite and a foodie attitude. Some patrons don't wait for the carts to wheel around, but hijack them when they've barely left the kitchen. Yes, you can also order a la carte.

All the dim sum offerings you expect, and more.
Ain't gonna bother listing them.
It's a madhouse.
Eat!

By the way: they also still have spittoons, so it's a bit old-fashioned.

College students may be inclined to live a bit more wildly.

Dim sum for breakfast can be a bit much.

And you need a crowd.


If you are eating on the go, and never-the-less want to have a fun meal, do something different.

Cross Wellington, and continue up Aberdeen to Gough, turn right, and go one more block to Mee Lun Street. You will now be in front of some of the finest snackipoos in Hong Kong. Cheap, too.
Yep. It's a food stall. No airconditioning offered, or even possible.
The electric fan might be on. Or not.
Outdoor dining.

沒錯，這是一個大排檔。


勝香園 SING HEUNG YUEN
2 Mei Lun Street, Central District.
中環，美輪街2號。


鮮茄牛肉午餐肉煎蛋通粉 Macaroni with fried egg and luncheon meat in tomato sauce.
蕃茄腸仔餐肉麵 Frank and luncheon meat tomato sauce noodles.
超級大雜匯蕃茄湯通粉 House special tomato noodle soup with darned well everything.
奶油脆脆 Hot buttered crispy buns with drizzled condensed milk.
檸蜜脆脆 Crispy lemon curd toasted buns.
豬扒脆脆 Pork cutlet toasted sandwich.
鹹檸七 Salt plum and lemon seven-up.
港式奶茶 Hong Gong style milk-tea.
And other delights.

You'll be eating with local folks at this place.
They're known for tomato soup and tomato sauce, which are made fresh with real tomatoes. That's why people come here.

[EXPLICATA -- 鮮 ('sin'): fresh. 茄 ('ke'): tomato, properly called 番茄 ('faan ke'). 牛肉 ('ngau yiuk'): beef. 午餐肉 ('ng chan yiuk') luncheon meat. 煎蛋 ('jin daan'): fried egg. 通粉 ('tung fan'): macaroni ("tube pasta"). 腸仔 ('cheung jai'): little sausage, hot dog. 麵 ('min'): noodles, usually meaning wheat noodles. 超級 ('chiu kap'): super, ultra, high rank; house special in this context. 大雜匯 ('daai jaap wui'): "great miscellaneous convergence"; darned well everything. 湯 ('tong'): soup. 奶油 ('naai yau'): butter. 脆脆 ('cheui-cheui'): ooh crispy crispy! 檸蜜 ('ning mat'): lemon honey. 豬扒 ('chyu baa'): pork cutlet. 鹹 ('haam'): salty. 港式奶茶 ('gong sik naai chaa'): Hong Kong style milk tea.]


Please note two things: Hong Kong natives call their toasted buns 'buttered pig' (奶油豬 'naai yau chyu'), and you can get a frankfurter (腸仔 'cheung jai') added to almost anything you want.



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