THE TASTE OF EXILE: SURINAMESE CHAROSET

The Portuguese Jewish community of Suriname was established in 1639, in the settlement of Torarica close to Paramaribo. What with some things being a bit difficult at that time and place, adaptation spurred innovation. The charoset they made for Pesach naturally deviated a little from what Americans are familiar with. Sort of twixt mediaeval European and Tropic.
The varied paths eventually settled into a familiar concoction.
It was popularized for North Americans after the war.
Although it never really caught on.

And considering that charoset is, ab initio, a relic of hotter climes with which Ashkenazim would only be familiar if they visit Miami Beach or Tallahassee (which have a climate halfway between hell and Paramaribo, though wetter than Sinai), it might be interesting to experiment. Why not? Gotta make the crackers edible.

For reference purposes, because Pesach is not a family tradition (though it was for a few years something I experienced), here is a recipe for Surinamese charoset.


SURINAMESE CHAROSET

One cup each of the following ingredients: crumbled or slivered almonds, raisins, dried apples, dried appricots, dried bananas or dates. Two or three cups grated coconut. Half a cup of jam (cherry, apricot, or other suitable preserve). Four tablespoons sugar. One tablespoon ground cinnamon, half a teaspoon ground clove.

Chop and mix, put in a pan with water to barely cover, simmer over low while stirring till it resembles spackle or cement. Add a cup of dessert wine (though I would use something 'drier', sherry for instance), stir to incorporate, and refrigerate till needed.


Bearing in mind the huge differences, charoset on matza is analogous to a peanut butter and jelly sandwich.


Now, for the bitter vegetable (maror), although horseradish or parsley and salt water is common, consider also using sopropo.

Bitter melon (momordica charantia) is called 苦瓜 ('fu gwaa') or 涼瓜 ('leung gwaa') in Cantonese, karela in Hindi and Urdu, peria or paré in Indonesian, ampalaya / palaya in the Philippines, and sopropo in Sranangtongo. It is a cucurbit. Cut it in half and scrape out seeds and pith, then slice, and soak in salt water to remove some of the bitterness.
Dress with a little pepper, olive oil and lime juice.
Your children will probably hate it.


It is available wherever there is an exiled group of South East Asians or Cantonese. In the Netherlands you may find it at Caribbean markets. Marvelous, cooked with fatty meats.


Paramaribo has temperatures in the high eighties for most of the year, and it rains a fair amount. It is quite livable, very diverse culturally, and malaria is no longer endemic.
Parbo Beer is the most popular beverage.



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