Sometimes walking along Stockton Street you might spontaneously decide upon a purchase. The lobster looks fresh and feisty, the water spinach is so nicely green, that fresh stalky mustard.....
Of course the grannie out front of the vegetable place yelling "a dollar per bag" (一文一包 'yat man yat baau') also attracts your attention. You're a Dutchman, so you have a cheapskate tendency a mile wide. You can't help it. But what keeps you from acting on it this time is the scrimmage around her, and the knowledge that you won't be able to understand her unadulterated Toishanese very well.
Walk on. Circumvent a five foot tall person with a huge bunch of greens. Step aside for the worker with the fully loaded dolly wheeling seven crates into a store. Express frustration under your breath about the large slow tourists. Who require so much room on the sidewalk, because there is just so much more space in Storgrisigjørmeberg, Minnesota.
And life is slower there.
On a whim, you purchase fresh clams (蜆 'hin'). Because they don't have those in Storgrisigjørmeberg (Mn), and you're thinking about mussels in Amsterdam at De Koperen Pan on the Tweede Helmerstraat at the corner of Alberdingk Thijm. At least, you think that's where it was. Maybe it was on the Eerste Constantijn Huijgens Straat. Just a short walk away, in any case. Lovely mussels!
In Holland, a big bucket of mussels is cheap.
Here, they're so expensive!
The following dish requires speed, dexterity, and judgment. No exact measures are given, that's where the judgement comes in.
豉椒炒蜆
[Stirfried clams with salted black beans and red pepper: 'si jiu chaau hin']
Rinse the clams in salt water, and briefly boil them. Sauté chopped shallot, minced salted black bean, garlic, and hot red chilies, till fragrant. Add the clams, agitate briskly, drizzle in a little siuheng rice wine or sherry, followed by the sauce fixings (dollop oyster sauce, spoonful of soy sauce, whisked smooth), then add the usual solution of cornstarch, water, and sugar and sir around till coated and glazed. Throw in a handful of segmented scallion, give it all a final turn, and plate it.
A native of the Netherlands or Flanders would probably have a glass of beer with this, but I prefer sherry. Except that because alcohol and my medications are not a good combo, I would abstain. Tea instead. The warm crusty sourdough to sop up juices is optional, and not strictly orthodox, but never the less recommended. In lieu of rice or French fries.
FYI: The character for clam is the bug radical (虫) next to an eye on legs (見) as the phonetic element.
FASTIDIOUS FILIPINA SHOPAHOLICS
And just so you know, "Every Day Is Seafood Day" at The Bistro.
Probably better call for reservations: +852 2351-1118
They're on Nathan Road in Tsimsatsui (尖沙咀).
彌敦道50號香港金域假日酒店1/F
They also have breakfast.
Right near fabulous shopping, in case you are squiring shopaholic Filipinas around.
Rolex, Louis Vuiton, Rado, Lukfook Jewelry, Sasa, Longines, Emperor Watches & Jewelry, Isa, Tissot, Gucci, Louboutin, Prada,
Chow Tai Fook, Harry Winston .....
Not something I would do.
But hey, whatever.
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