TROPIC OF SPINACH

Outkitchens, in insular South-East Asia, are the places where most of the cooking takes place.
A simple clay stove, or bricked fire range, on which both iron pans and clay pots are equally at home, with a brazier for roasting. Plus a table for preparing food, a vat for water, and basins for washing vegetables and rice. Stone tile flooring. Cover it all with a corrugated roof, and leave at least one of the sides open so that smoke can clear.

The advantage is that one does not risk burning down the house if the fire gets out of control. But the real advantage is ventilation and the relative ease of clean-up.

Many people now have two kitchens. There's the expensive Western Kitchen, with electric appliances and the fancy imported range, as well as running water, refrigeration, and air-con. But most of the cooking is not done there. It serves to show off how modern the family is, and is also used to store the tinned and bottled foods (often still kept in a cupboard with woven slat or wire-gauze doors to keep out the pests). The real kitchen is outdoors.

Fresh ingredients are still bought daily, still washed out back, still cooked plainly in clay pots on the brick range. Real food does not require electric devices and complicated gadgets. People still cook what they have always been accustomed to eating. Food is not complicated.


Simplicity of cooking, however, by no means implies boring food. One can eat very well without ever using a blender. A soupy dish, a mild wet curry (mostly vegetables), a spicy dry-fry of vegs or meat, and a steamed fish, plus rice and blanched vegetables with a funky dip. And a chili-paste (sambal) on the side.
Easy, tasty, scant fuss.

The following spinach dish can also be cooked indoors, if one lacks access to a climate that averages nearly a hundred degrees Fahrenheit year-round. It will be just as good.



GULE BAYEM

One pound spinach, rinsed and chopped.
Three cups coconut milk.
One stem lemongras, trimmed and bruised.
Two or three Romas, peeled seeded and chopped.
Two or three green Jalapenos, left whole.
Some slivered ginger.
Squeeze of lime.
One Tsp ground coriander.
Half Tsp turmeric.
Half Tsp ground cumin.
Dash of Tabasco.
Pinch salt.

Put everything except the spinach and lime juice in a large saucepan and simmer uncovered until slightly thickened, 8 to 10 minutes.
Add spinach, simmer until tender. Squeeze the lime over, and garnish with a little parsley and cilantro.
Serve with other dishes and rice.

Note I: It is best to fire-roast the Roma tomatoes to blister the skin before peeling.
Note II: Leave the Jalapenos whole so that their fragrance will be imparted to the dish, but not their heat. If you wish you can eat them separately yourself.
Note III: It is authentic to include either dried smoked fish or dried shrimp in the coconut milk. Authentic, but not necessary. Same goes for stinky fish-paste. It is up to you.


Bayem is actually Amaranthus leaf, rather than spinach. But you are more likely to encounter spinach at the market, and any type of greens will do. You could also use mustard greens, chard, or even chili leaves (called daon tjabe in Tamarao). All of these leafy things, collectively, count as bayem in modern parlance.
Gule ('goo-leh') means a wet coconut milk (santen) based mild curry.

The quantities given above would be suitable for four people. If it is just the two of you, adjust accordingly.