IT'S NOT PORRIDGE, IT'S RICE SOUP: CHOI PO FAN 菜泡飯

You've probably read a lot of mentions on this blog of rice porridge (粥 juk, "jook"), and seen me wax ecstatic over that simple preparation. The problem is that cooking jook takes attention and time if it's done properly.
Low temperature and frequent stirring to prevent scorching while helping the rice grains break down are key. You're aiming for something akin to gloop, yet spoonably thin. Add some broth, and either dried oysters (蠔豉 'hou si') or sliced preserved egg (皮蛋 'pei daan'), plus lean pork or sliced fresh fish.
Even dried fish (柴魚 'chai yü'), pork floss (肉鬆 'yiuk sung'), and fried peanuts (炸花生 'jaa faa sang').

An upscale version, with baby oysters and minced pork, is also a great idea: 蠔仔肉碎粥 ('hou chai yiuk seui juk')。

Rice porridge is profound comfort food.

But it isn't po fan.


上海菜泡飯 SEUNG HOI CHOI POU FAAN

Preparing po fan (泡飯 'soaked rice') starts hours before it is eaten, and requires hardly any effort at all. Soak well-rinsed rice in fresh water for a few hours, or overnight in the refrigerator. Drain, put in a pot with six to eight times as much liquid -- ideally, half water half stock -- and bring to a boil. Simmer for ten minutes till the rice has fluffed up, turn off.

Chop up a little fatty pork or bacon, plus small green cabbage (青菜), some leafy greens, scallion, and ginger. In a hot wok parch these ingredients briefly, seethe with a generous splash of rice wine (or use cooking sherry), then dump the rice and its liquid over.

Serve in bowls, accompanied by pressed pickle (榨菜 'ja choi'), sweet-soy and vinegar steeped daikon (醬蘿蔔 'jeung lo baak'), spicy bamboo shoot (辣筍茸 'laat suen yong'), rinsed and chopped snow cabbage (雪菜 'suet choi'), and perhaps a few small pieces of roast chicken.
Anything salty, savoury, spicy.
Eat with a spoon.

The key is that the rice grains are still distinct and whole.

It can also be made with leftover rice.

This, in essence, is the Shanghainese national dish. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, or whenever you feel like it.


Choi pou faan is not, however, restaurant fare. Consequently I would probably not expect it at one of my favourite eateries, though I'm absolutely certain they could make a stellar version.

上海飯店
BUND SHANGHAI RESTAURANT
640 Jackson Street
San Francisco, CA 94133.
Telephone: 415-982-0618

You'll find many other things to eat there, including several dishes not available elsewhere. The ambiance is very nice, the service is extremely courteous and considerate, and food is absolutely superb.
It would be the perfect place to take a date sometime.
Save the pou faan for a midnight snack.
Or breakfast together.




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