WHAT DID YOU JUST SAY NOODLES

A friend in the medical field has just returned from China, where he lectured and ate. As one does. Over cigars he detailed some of the culinaria. He particularly likes Xi'an food. Which he has had many times now. The grilled meats. The wheat products. The condimental touches.

And biang biang noodles (𰻞𰻞麵). Which are long and thick, like a sash or belt, and to the best of my knowledge (please correct me if I'm wrong) not a cult-thing elsewhere. Served in an oily chili, garlic, and cumin, sauce with additions like meat and vegs. Usually lamb, which benefits enormously from a certain spiciness to tone down gaminess. But minced pork is also commonly used. Savoury, spicy, with a tiny hint of sweetness.

Also not at all unusual are duck or chicken meat instead of four-footed animal, plus there vegetarian versions as well. The noodles are handpulled after the dough has rested for a few hours. They should be wide enough that they're nearly impossible to handle with chopsticks once cooked and served. Chili oil in the dressing is unavoidable, taken for granted, a given, an absolute indispensable sine qua non.

The other essential ingredient, I believe, is a ridiculously complex written character, of which there are over two dozen variants, only used for this noodle, only used in Shanxi, with no other utility than shop signs and menus for places that serve this, and not in most dictionaries.

Please memorize this character. It is incredible useful, and knowledge of it will qualify you as a member of the literate class among a very small number of Chinese people.
Who will be quite chuffed that you know it.

Then go show off your new-found skill at Terra Cotta Warrior, located at 2555 Judah Street, San Francisco, CA 94122. From here (Nob Hill) you take the bus down Van Ness Avenue to Civic Center, then catch the N Judah and get off at 31st, not too far from where the colonel used to live. It will take between half an hour and forty five minutes.
Their prices are quite reasonable.

By the way: there is NO acceptable pronunciation for 𰻞 in Cantonese.
I feel that this is a regrettable oversight.
Perhaps soon, though.



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