Showing posts with label Mooncakes (月餅). Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mooncakes (月餅). Show all posts

Thursday, August 25, 2022

IT'S RAINING MOONCAKES

Mooncake season is upon us. And consequently, the tables in the back of AA Bakery (永興餅家 'wing hing bing kaa') were fully occupied by packaging activities. Except for one with an elderly uncle sitting at it. When I joined him he asked whether I was having coffee. Nope, naai chaa.

The AA Bakery makes splendid mooncakes.
Their offerings are stellar.

[永興餅家茶餐廳 AA BAKERY & CAFE, 1068 Stockton Street, San Francisco, CA 94108. 415-981-0123.]


The Mid Autumn Festival (fifteenth day of the eighth month) this year is on Saturday September 10. Mooncakes have been evident for the past two weeks, including the four-cake coloured boxes from Hong Kong, but the best are locally made.

For your reference, the most common types of mooncake:

純正蓮蓉月餅 ('juen jeng lin yung yuet bing'): no yolk lotus seed paste mooncake.
單黃蓮蓉月餅 ('daan wong lin yung yuet bing'): single yolk lotus seed paste mooncake.
雙黃蓮蓉月餅 ('seung wong lin yung yuet bing'): double yolk lotus seed paste mooncake.
純正豆沙月餅 ('juen jeng dau saa yuet bing'): no yolk red bean paste mooncake.
單黃豆沙月餅 ('daan wong dau saa yuet bing'): single yolk red bean paste mooncake.
雙黃豆沙月餅 ('seung wong dau saa yuet bing'): double yolk red bean paste mooncake.

One of my favourites is single egg yolk chestnut: 單黃栗子月餅 ('daan wong leut ji yuet bing'). I mention this in case you want to give me a box. Double yolk lotus seed paste also can.
The South China Morning Post had an article recently claiming that nobody really likes mooncakes, they just buy them because of tradition. Which was absurd on the face of it.
I didn't click on the article because I'm not insane. Chinatown is awash with the things. Each store has stacks as tall as a man of mooncake boxes. Even eateries which only have the most tenuous connection to baking sell tonnes of them. It's major.


There are over two more weeks to buy them. I might go ape.
Naturally I shall avoid the durian mooncakes (榴蓮月餅).
As will all reasonable people, I expect.



==========================================================================
NOTE: Readers may contact me directly:
LETTER BOX.
All correspondence will be kept in confidence.
==========================================================================

Tuesday, September 21, 2021

THE MID AUTUMN FESTIVAL

During the hottest part of the day I ventured to a chachanteng where, two years ago, I had suffered immensely from the heat (because my circulation doesn't work so well during a heat wave; my blood is too thick for California, I've never been able to properly explain myself in this climate ... ). That had been an interesting day. I was determined to do it better this time.

Bitter melon omelette over rice (涼瓜煎蛋飯 'leung gwaa jin daan faan'), and Hong Kong Milk Tea (港式奶茶: 'gong-sik naai-cha'). Sometimes my food decisions are boringly predictable.

The twitchy dude was there -- he's probably the cousin whom everyone looks out for, some kind of physical malfunction -- and it became apparent that the staff themselves intended to feast during hot weather. Steamed fish (which looked lovely), three choi dishes, and deep fried pumpkin fritters, plus chicken. Eight people. Their lunch lasted longer than mine.

Over their heads the television showed a travel journalist visiting Pingtan (平潭) in Fujian province, a fishing village with delicious crabs, oysters, and razorback clams. First out on the water. Then in the evening barbecuing the catch on a rooftop with the family. A little girl ecstatic about the prospect of a feast, cute as the dickens in her happiness. And her two smaller sisters. Oh boy, food! Company! People! Deliciousness! Staying up late!

When Chinese people are happy because of food, it's often because it also means togetherness, family, not being alone, a sense of belonging and community.
And all kinds of other good connotations.

When solitary Dutch Americans are happy because of food, it's because it tastes yummy, they can listen in on other people and observe them discreetly, the place where they are eating means something to them, there's no rush, and good heavens this is great with a sploodge of hot sauce. We aren't as social.
Went into Hang Ah Alley afterwards, eventually ending up sitting in Spofford for the remainder of my pipe. The local residents there like to live outdoors in this weather. Afterwards did some shopping, and dragged myself over to a bakery to rest for two hours waiting for the day to cool down. My legs (because of heat and circulation) were throbbing and limp.


I did not need anymore milk tea, nor the pastry. But I didn't want to rely on their tolerance without spending money. Observing the throngs of people (mostly Chinese) eagerly buying mooncakes was quite enjoyable. One of the newest flavours is "fragrant leaf" (香葉 'heung yip'), which is pandan or screwpine, a plant native to Malaysia, Indonesia, and Indochina, whose leaves or essence are much loved as a fragrance or enhancer of other ingredients. Delicate yet intense. Excellent with chocolate, chiffon cake, coconut fudge, and curries.


At the bus stop on the way home had a chat with two young ladies about durian.
Which they love, and I'm on the fence about. It's one of those things.
There are durian mooncakes. Which I have not wished to try.



Today was the mid-Autumn festival. Eighth month, fifteenth day. Togetherness, family, not being alone, a sense of belonging, and community.



==========================================================================
NOTE: Readers may contact me directly:
LETTER BOX.
All correspondence will be kept in confidence.
==========================================================================

Thursday, September 09, 2021

A FULL GOLDEN TIME

At this time of year we remember the Red Turban Rebellions (紅巾起義 'hung gan hei yi') against the foreign dynasty nearly seven centuries ago. And, given the huge resettlements ordered in the first years of the Ming, it is fitting that people think of their distant kin and home towns. To put it differently, its mooncake time. The Autumn Festival (中秋節'jung chau jit').

Basically, moon viewing and moon worship, ancient shamanism and rejuvenatory concepts dating back over two millennia, harvest time, thanksgiving, gratitude, family, friends, and insurrection. All rolled into one giant ball of wax. Plus pastries.

Those of us who do not participate in religious practices focus mostly on the pastries.
The historical aspects too, but the pastries hold serious weight.


I gave some mooncakes (月餅 'yuet bing') to my downstair neighbors yesterday. She's SF Cantonese, he's East Coast Caucasian. Single yolk red bean paste (單黃豆沙 'daan wong dau saa') and double yolk lotus seed paste (雙黃蓮蓉 'seung wong lin yung').


Snarfing pastries is how I celebrate most festivals.
I'm not really a family feast type of man.
Uncle Stinky, a bachelor.




==========================================================================
NOTE: Readers may contact me directly:
LETTER BOX.
All correspondence will be kept in confidence.
==========================================================================

Tuesday, September 11, 2018

MOONCAKES ON MY MIND: MID AUTUMN 2018

Now it turns out that when you do amateur translating while having Hong Kong milk tea and an egg tart, you end up with a free Hong Kong milk tea and an egg tart. As well as a red bean paste moon cake with an egg yolk.
Which is very nice, but I did try to pay and turn down the moon cake, because I would have done it all for funsies anyhow.
What with being a show-off.
At tea time.


The Chinese Mid-Autumn Festival (中秋節 'jung chau jit') is on September 24 this year. In the period leading up to it, mooncakes are all over the place. The supply tapers off afterwards.


Aside from numerous observances, one of the most enjoyable things is the common availability of such pastries. Which are about as thick as a good steak, and the diameter of a can of catfood. Usually round, sometimes square. They're filled with a sweet paste, very rich and delicious, and often have a preserved duck egg yolk for a yummy taste contrast.


月餅

So, for the benefit of Asian Americans who cannot read Chinese OR speak Cantonese, what with being from Shanghai or Taiwan, or tenth generation, AND those non-Chinese with open culinary minds who are not far from a Chinese bakery, here are some translations.

The most common types of mooncake:

純正蓮蓉月餅 ('juen jeng lin yung yuet bing'): no yolk lotus seed paste mooncake.
單黃蓮蓉月餅 ('daan wong lin yung yuet bing'): single yolk lotus seed paste mooncake.
雙黃蓮蓉月餅 ('seung wong lin yung yuet bing'): double yolk lotus seed paste mooncake.
純正豆沙月餅 ('juen jeng dau saa yuet bing'): no yolk red bean paste mooncake.
單黃豆沙月餅 ('daan wong dau saa yuet bing'): single yolk red bean paste mooncake.
雙黃豆沙月餅 ('seung wong dau saa yuet bing'): double yolk red bean paste mooncake.

[純正 ('juen jeng'): pure, unadulterated. 雙黃 ('seung wong'): two yellows. 蓉 ('yung'): hibiscus, Chengdu city; smooth confectionary paste. 月餅 ('yuet bing'): mooncake.]


Other types of mooncake that are well-known:

白蓮蓉月餅 ('paak lin yung yuet bing'): white lotus seed paste mooncake.
棗泥月餅 ('jou nei yuet bing'): red Chinese date paste mooncake.
五仁月餅 ('ng yan yuet bing'): five types of nuts mooncake.
金華火腿 ('kam waa fo tuei'): Jinhua ham with fruits and nuts.


Five less common types of mooncake filling:

芋頭 ('wu tau'): taro. 芝麻 ('ji maa'): sesame. 榴蓮 ('lau lin'): durian. 綠茶 ('luk cha'): green tea. 栗蓉 ('luet yung'): chestnut paste.


西木米

Note regarding that last one that 栗 ('luet') looks remarkably like 粟 ('suk'), which means millet, and is used for corn (maize) in Cantonese.
The difference is that while both have "west" (西 'sai') on top, the first has "wood" (木 'muk') underneath, the second "husked rice kernel" (米 'mai').
It's easy to misread or mis-write one for the other.



永興,東亞,榮華

In addition to two deservedly famous and very excellent bakeries (永興餅家 'wing hing bing kaa', the AA Bakery on Stockton Street; 東亞餅家 'tung ah bing kaa', the Eastern Bakery on Grant) for Chinese style patisserie, San Francisco Chinatown is loaded to the gills with square four-cake tins from numerous other manufacturers, including several kinds from Hong Kong.

And surely you've heard of Wing Wah (香港榮華餅家有限公司 'heung kung wing waa bing kaa yau haan kung si') in the New territories?



POST SCRIPTUM

While I was typing this, our landlady rang the doorbell. At present there are more mooncakes in this apartment than there were before.
They will be very much enjoyed.



==========================================================================
NOTE: Readers may contact me directly:
LETTER BOX.
All correspondence will be kept in confidence.
==========================================================================

Thursday, October 26, 2017

MOONCAKES IN MANILA

A friend brought back some mooncakes from Manila recently. They are from a bakery that I went into, once, and only vaguely remember: Salazar Bakery, 783 Ongpin Street, Binondo, Manila, 1006 Metro Manila, Philippines. Apparently they're bigger and better than ever before, as they now have shiny modern branches all over town.

They are famous for their hopia, tikoy.
Plus biscuits, and mooncakes.


達華餅店的月餅

The Chinese handle of the bakery (達華 'lin waa') means "attaining splendour". Like many Chinese business names it expresses a hope, an aspiration, and an eloquent combination of propitious terms.
And, given their quality and success, it is apposite.

A long time ago I was in Manila. I particularly remember the torrential rain, and paddling into the kitchen late at night for another glass of tea and a bit of mooncake. Three different places and times, three different families.

All of them were Chinese. One family spoke Mandarin, Hokkien (which may have been the 泉州 dialect of 閩南話), Cantonese (three members only), Tagalog, and English. One commonly used Cantonese, Tagalog and Cebuano, English, and German. And one spoke English primarily, plus various dialects of Chinese, and Tagalog.

[Different languages can be very important to people's self-definitions, and in the Manila context that means the more tongues the merrier. One aged gentleman explained himself (in English) as a Tagalog-speaking Fujianese Chinese from Ilocos, with great facility in Italian (!), and a fair ability in Spanish.
But what I best remember is his fluency in Latin.
He had, at one time, been a priest.]


At that time of year (中秋節 'jong chau jit') they all had mooncakes (月餅 'yuet bing'), and there was a thermos of tea in the kitchen at all times.
Darkness, silence, hot tea, mooncake.
That which is lovely.


For a few years in North Beach I used a humongous tea thermos, and because the nearest bakery was a block away, mooncakes during September and October were a constant.
Which they still are.

[Mooncakes are big and thick, approximately four inches across and two deep. A thin baked crust surrounds a rich filling, usually lotus seed paste (蓮蓉 'lin yong') or red bean paste (豆沙 'dau saa', with a salted egg yolk (蛋黃 'daan wong') embedded within recalling the harvest moon. The egg yolk adds to the density of taste most marvelously. You can also get them with two egg yolks, and various other fillings are also common. I prefer the double egg lotus seed: 雙黃白蓮蓉月餅 ('seung wong baak lin yong yuet bing').]


The climate in Manila is very much like the unseasonable warmth in San Francisco, between eight and ninety degrees, such as we are having now. The humidity is much worse, though. Like wading through warm jello.
You can indeed get used to it, but you are often bedewed.
Your laundry needs to be done every day.
Frowst is a fact of life.


Chinese families patiently put up with their stinky white guests, and probably burn the sheets that he used after he has finally gone.


The mooncakes are excellent.
Thank you.




==========================================================================
NOTE: Readers may contact me directly:
LETTER BOX.
All correspondence will be kept in confidence.
==========================================================================

Saturday, September 16, 2017

A BANE UPON HIS TRIBULATION!

Good thing I went out to eat yesterday afternoon, because when I finally returned home she was cooking a delicious vegetable stew for her mucky man, and the kitchen was off limits. So preparing my own food would have been out of the question entirely, as I wouldn't have been able to use the kitchen till long after nine o'clock.

She didn't used to be so neurotic about me being in there at the same time that she's making food to take over to mucky man's house, but without her he'd probably subsist on protein bars and non-dairy yoghurt.

My presence can be baleful.

There are cookies in the teevee room in case I get desperate, but this week they are "pumpkin sandwich cookies with pumpkin cream filling in every bite", which, if you ask me, is a repulsive concept so bad that some people are going to burn for an eternity in hell just for inventing them.

Her absurd experimentation with a new snack.
Not mine. I am not that adventurous.
Pumpkins are evil.


Besides, it is far too early for anything pumpkin, despite what Mary Walters back east says. Now is the time for mooncakes (月餅 'yuet bing'). Which are finally available again at several bakeries in Chinatown. The two best sources are Eastern Bakery on Grant and Double AA on Stockton.

AA BAKERY & CAFÉ
永興餅家茶餐廳 ('wing hing bing ka cha chan teng')
1068 Stockton Street
San Francisco, CA 94108
(415) 981-0123

EASTERN BAKERY
東亞餅家 ('tung ah bing ka')
720 Grant Avenue
San Francisco, CA 94108
(415) 433-7973


Remember, I like double egg yolk, either lotus seed paste or red bean. 雙黃蓮蓉 ('seung wong lin yung')or 雙黃豆沙 ('seung wong dau saa').
In case anyone wants to buy me a treat.
Because they are delicious!

The mid-autumn festival is on October 4 this year.
中秋節 ('jung chau jit').


Years ago I would share mooncakes with my coworkers, but I discovered that if they were white and American they weren't as excited about them as I was. Their reactions often amounted to "that's so interesting I do not want another piece", and some of them would stay out my way for the rest of the week, for fear that I would force more new concepts on them.

I remember one blonde, attractive in a way, who never spoke to me again. No, not the paranoid ditz in International Sales at the computer company who became convinced that I had evil voodoo skillz -- I had disquisitioned on kuru in the weeks before the Arkansas chicken ranch cannibal episode ("Chaco Chicken") of the X-Files aired, forgetting that many people are too literal minded, and have no curiosity -- but a woman at an auditing firm.
The mooncake was just too foreign strange weird for her.

Mooncakes fill me with childish pleasure.
Some people don't have that.



My apartment sort-of likes them. She's younger than me, but not as childish. I'll just assume that her boyfriend Old Muckity doesn't.
I don't know. He's as white as I am, but more of an idiot.

Whether he gets mooncakes or not, meh.
Not my concern either way.
Doof.



==========================================================================
NOTE: Readers may contact me directly:
LETTER BOX.
All correspondence will be kept in confidence.
==========================================================================

Friday, September 09, 2016

MOONCAKES, SAN FRANCISCO

The moon festival is a Chinese celebration on the fifteenth day of the eighth lunar month. This year it will be September 15. There's a whole bucket load of meaning and symbolism to the event, most of which you do not need to know, and would not pay any heed to whatsoever anyway.

So, in short, here are the most important things to keep in mind:


THE MOON FESTIVAL 

中秋節 ('jung chau jit')

Over three thousand years of tradition, worship in gratitude for the harvest.
Full moon.
There are stories.
Family togetherness.
Revolt against the foreigners.
Lanterns.
Eat mooncakes.


MOONCAKES 

月餅 ('yuet bing')

Mooncakes can be made with any number of fillings. Often they will contain a salted duck egg yolk, which makes them richer and adds complexity to the sweetness. Very delicious!

There are four kinds that in my mind you should consider:

單黃蓮蓉 ('daan wong lin yung'): single yolk lotus seed paste.
雙黃蓮蓉 ('seung wong lin yung'): double yolk lotus seed paste.
單黃豆沙 ('daan wong dau saa'): single yolk red bean paste.
雙黃豆沙 ('seung wong dau saa'): double yolk red bean paste.

Yes there are many others. And regional variations. But start with these.

Where might you buy them?


BAKERIES
餅家 ('bing kaa') 


THE AA BAKERY & CAFÉ
永興餅家茶餐廳 ('wing hing bing ka tsa tsan teng')
1068 Stockton Street
San Francisco, CA 94108
(415) 981-0123

EASTERN BAKERY
東亞餅家 ('tung ah bing ka')
720 Grant Avenue
San Francisco, CA 94108
(415) 433-7973

Both bakeries are famous for their mooncakes. The AA also has Hong Kong style milk-tea (港式奶茶 'gong sik naai chaa'), the Eastern is, additionally, famous for their coffee crunch cake.

Every bakery in Chinatown will have mooncakes.
Don't worry, you won't be left yearning.

If you do not have a chance to head into Chinatown, you can also purchase tins with four cakes apiece, made by several companies, available at many Chinese grocery stores out in the Richmond or Sunset.
A well-know imported brand is Wing Wah (榮華 、榮華餅家), from a company located in Yuen Long (元朗) in the New Territories.
Many people look forward to a tin.
It's a celebration.



I myself will NOT be buying a tin of mooncakes this year, as I am single, not particularly festive, and I feel fat.




==========================================================================
NOTE: Readers may contact me directly:
LETTER BOX.
All correspondence will be kept in confidence.
==========================================================================

Wednesday, August 20, 2014

THE UNINVOLVED MAN

Courtesy of an insensitive acquaintance, I am cognizant once more of all the holidays I am so un-vested in as to rather dislike hearing about them nowadays. This pursuant a favourite celebration which is coming up, that has the saving grace of being, for me, largely about food.
One item. High sugar, high fat, high cholesterol.
Choice of several traditional flavours.
Plus one, or two, or three.


中秋節或八月節

This year the moon festival will occur on Monday, September 8.

The traditional food is the mooncake, that being a large hockey puck consisting of thin pastry surrounding a sweet filling. The top is usually embossed with a design that evokes the season, or a lucky phrase and various lucky images.

The most traditional filling is lotus seed paste, but other common fillings are adzuki paste, five fruits and nuts, candied melon, and several others, all based on sugar, fat, and a flavour that goes with sugar and fat.

Traditionally, a whole salted egg yolk is in the centre, contributing its own wonderful richness to the whole. Nowadays, one can find versions with two egg yolks, or even three.

Think of it as an ancient energy bar.
But a whole lot better tasting.
Caloric excess.

Yes, the fifteenth day of the eighth lunar month has an immense overlay of family connotations, togetherness, rich folkloric tradition, home town memories, and all the rest of that good stuff, along with rebellion and conspiracy, which are also very popular tropes in Chinese culture.
But, being a Caucasian, for me it's all about the cake.
White people get to be kind of insensitive.
And anyhow, we lack culture.

Actually, I'm going to darn well ignore that family and home town business, seeing as I have little left of the first, and cannot really claim the second.

Lotus seed paste, with TWO salted egg yolks.
Yum babies, you betcha.



APPENDIX

The celebrations which now mean very little to me are listed below.

Chinese New Year.
Lantern Festival.
Superbowl Sunday.
Valentine's Day.
Carneval.
Purim.
Saint Patrick's Day.
Ching Ming.
Passover.
Easter.
The Queen's Day.
Bevrijdingsdag / Cinco de Mayo.
Mother's Day.
Gay Pride.
Father's Day.
Dragon Boat Festival.
Solstice.
Independence Day.
Bastille Day.
Rosh Hashanah.
Simchas Torah.
My Birthday.
Hallowe'en.
Dia de los Muertos.
Guy Fawkes Night.
Thanksgiving.
Saint Nicholas Eve.
Channukah.
Christmas.
Oud Jaar's Avond.

Most of these have special foods associated with them, and many are either community or family events embedded in specific cultures.
I'm a rather generic kind of fellow.
My bonds aren't very strong.
And I rain on parades.


PS. Already acquired two mooncakes, planning on more.
Don't stop me. I shall be on a roll.
Expect happy.



==========================================================================
NOTE: Readers may contact me directly:
LETTER BOX.
All correspondence will be kept in confidence.
==========================================================================

Sunday, August 17, 2014

MALARIA

Over a year ago I passed an old gentleman lying flat on his back in the street in Chinatown, while smoking my pipe one afternoon. No, I did not stop; he was being ably assisted by emergency personell, one of whom was keen to find out about his medications. The questions were being asked in Cantonese.

I do not know much about any ailments in Cantonese.
Mostly, my vocabulary is strongest about food.
Not the best subject, probably.
In that instance.

"Did you recently eat anything the ingredients of which, as well as the mode or preparation, might be suspected of having caused a sudden feeling of lassitude OR existential angst?"

“你近日食咗啲嘢,其中嘅成分或模式及準備方式樣,可能會被懷疑引起精神唔振嘅覺得或著存在焦慮突然感覺嘅咩?”

['Nei gan-yat sik-jo di ye, gei-jung ge sing-fan waak mou-sik gap juen-bei fong-sik-yeung, ho-nang wui pei waai-yi yan hei jing-san m-jan ge gok-tak, waak-je chuen-jai jiu-leui dat-yin gam gok ge me?']


Sounds a bit complicated. Best to simplify, given that he's tipped over.

And taking into account my miserable pronunciation.


"Hey! How's your gout then?"

喂,你嘅痛風病,而家點樣呀,老生?

['Wei, nei-ge tung-fung beng yi-kaa dim-yeung ah, lou-saang?']


On second thought, perhaps I am not the right person to make medical inquiries. Which, more or less, brings me right to the subject of Malaria.

From Wikipedia:
瘧疾,俗稱打擺子、打老張,是一種由瘧原蟲造成的全球性急性寄生蟲傳染病,通過瘧蚊傳播。獨特癥狀為間歇性發冷發熱。世界範圍內,呈現臨床癥狀的病例每年就在3億到5億之間,每年因患瘧疾死亡的人數在一到三百萬之間,其中大部分為兒童。兒童、孕婦、旅遊者和各地的新移民對本地流行的瘧原蟲免疫力較差,故是易患瘧疾的高危人群。瘧疾主要的流行地區是非洲中部、南亞、東南亞及南美北部的熱帶地區,這其中又以非洲的疫情最甚。

口服或肌肉注射奎寧是一種有效方法。20世紀中期以後也出現了一些新的藥物,中國科學家研製的青蒿素有很好的抗瘧疾效果。不過一些瘧疾也發展出抗藥性。


"Malaria, colloquially known as "fighting tremors" or "fighting Old Chang", is a global acute parasitic infection caused by the malaria parasite, which is spread by the Anopheles mosquito. The disease is characterized by intermittent fever and chills. Cases worldwide each year showing clinical symptoms number from 300 million to 500 million, the annual number of deaths suffering from malaria between are one to three million, most of whom are juveniles. New immigrant children, pregnant women, tourists and others with low or no immunity to the parasite are particularly at a risk. Malaria is endemic in Central Africa, South Asia, Southeast Asia and tropical regions of the northern part of South America, but the hardest hit region is Africa by far."

"Oral or intramuscular quinine is an effective treatment method. After the mid-20th century, there were also some new drugs; Chinese scientists have developed a very good antimalarial from artemisinin. However, some strains have developed drug resistance."

[Key vocabulary:  瘧疾 'yuek jat': malaria; intermittent fever + illness, sickness; hate.  俗稱 'juk ching': commonly referred to, vulgarly known (as).  打擺子、打老張 'daa bai ji, daa lou Cheung': hitting tremors, hitting old Chiang.  瘧原蟲 'yuek yuen chung': malaria origin bug; plasmodium.  造成 'chou sing': cause, bring about.  全球性 'chuen kau sing': global, world-wide.  急性 'gap sing': acute.  寄生蟲 'gai saang chung': parasite, parasitic.  傳染病 'chuen yim beng': infectious disease.  通過 'tung gwo': by means of.  瘧蚊 'yuek man': malaria mosquito; anopheles.  傳播 'chuen bo': disseminate.  獨特 'duk dak': having the characteristic of, distinguished by.  間歇 'gaan hit': interval cease; stop while, intermittent.  發冷 'faa ling': feel chill.  發熱 'faa yit': feel heat.  範圍內 'faan wai noi': pattern encircle inside; within the scope or range of.  臨床 'lam chong': approach framework or parameters; clinical.  每年 'mui nin': each year.  患 'waan': suffer.  死亡 'sei mong': dead loss, die perish.  人數 'yan sou': person number, people count.  其中 'gei chung': that which + among, central; including, amongst which.  大部 'daai bou': great section; majority.  兒童 'yi tung': children.  孕婦 'yan fu': pregnant woman.  旅遊者 'leui yau che': journey roam agent; travelling person, tourist.  新移民 'san yi man': new shift people; recent migrants.  本地 'pun dei': original earth; local, native.  流行 'lau hang': flow, drift + walk, travel, move; spread, disperse, flow about.  免疫力 'man yik lik': evade pestilence power; immunity.  較差 'gaau chaai'; comparatively wrong; mediocre, rather faulty or flawed.  地區 'dei keui': earth area; region, district, area.  非洲中部 'fei jau chung bou': Africa central sector.  南亞 'naam (ng)aa'; Southern Asia.  東南亞 'dung naam (ng)aa'; east south Asia.  南美北部 'naam mei pak bou': south America north sector.]


I don't know why I started reading about malaria recently. Possibly it was because my apartment mate had a fit when she saw a mosquito the other day, maybe it is a potent association with certain smells.
Some types of incense drive away mosquitoes.
Among them are aquilaria woods.

I've never had malaria, and I do not intend to ever catch it either.
Living in San Francisco I am not at risk.

Never the less, I have both aquilaria wood incense and a mosquito net.
The resinous punkum has a pleasant old-timey fragrance, the gauze makes night-time dreamier.


In the year 1094, the great scholar and poet Su Tung-po (蘇東坡) was sent south to Guangdong province, with the express purpose that he should die of the miasmas and tropical diseases there and thus cease to be a nuisance to the clique then holding power in the government.
He survived six long years among the colourful birds, jungly denizens, and howling langurs south of the passes. Sadly, he died on the way home in 1101 C.E.


中秋節 CHUNG JAU JIT

The mid-autumn festival is coming up once more, this year it's on the eighth of September. Soon mooncakes will be available again, and people will be travelling home to spend the time with family. The astute reader will readily understand the mental association that brought this up; Su tung-po wrote some lovely poems about the season, which are still quoted today. Unfortunately they are rather hard to translate well.
Forgive me, I shan't even make the attempt.



"Su Shi". Licensed under Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Su_Shi.jpg#mediaviewer/File:Su_Shi.jpg



==========================================================================
NOTE: Readers may contact me directly:
LETTER BOX.
All correspondence will be kept in confidence.
==========================================================================

Thursday, September 23, 2010

IN MID AUTUMN

If you live in San Francisco you know about panhandling. San Francisco is an expensive place to live, and some people end up here without the necessary support systems. San Francisco can be a very hard town.

I’ll give money to panhandlers – when someone is desperate, it seems utterly heartless to pretend they do not even exist. A dollar here and there really won’t inconvenience me, but it enables them to continue for a while longer, and maybe things will turn out better for them.

Yes, a few probably intend to spend that money on booze or illicit substances. Given their circumstances, I have to assume that even that choice is the result of an informed decision.
Their life, and their need for something to distract themselves from it - anything to make conditions bearable.


THEY HAVE FACES

A few years ago a new person showed up around the corner from my office. It’s a busy street in the evening, when people head towards the Bart station, so the panhandling chances there are relatively excellent.

This person was an old Chinese woman, barely four and a half feet tall, with white hair, and a very gentle intelligent face – in her youth she must have been just about the prettiest thing. She had small gnarled hands that had clearly done much work, and would have preferred to yet be working.
A very delicate and vulnerable woman, but very much alive – her eyes still sparkled. She could only speak a few words of English, and those so badly that context had to make clear what she said.
She was, with extreme and almost paralyzing embarrassment, asking strangers for spare change.


HI, HOW ARE YOU?

I did what I always do in cases like that. I smiled, gave her some dollar bills, and wished her a pleasant evening. One has to invest such transactions with dignity and a semblance of normalcy. Things like this feel much better for both people if done gracefully.

Two or three evenings a week she would be at the corner timidly asking the rushing pedestrians for coins. The vast majority studiously ignored her, hurrying by as if no one were there, and they themselves were very important people late for an appointment.
Every time I saw her I gave her some money. While having a smoke near the end of the day I would walk down the street to see if she was there – it’s good to see someone smile.

She wasn’t always there, as she probably did receive a monthly cheque. Which, in San Francisco, does not go very far. But being so incapable of speaking English, as well as shy, she was in no position to figure out the complexities of the system. Funds would run out in a week or so.
I believe that she had been employed in the garment factories (sweatshops) that used to be in Chinatown, and once manufacturing went overseas she was left without many options. There are a fair number of middle-aged and elderly women like that – they came to this country years ago, and found work among the safety of other Cantonese speakers. Where many stayed.
The need to earn a living, the pressure of raising a family, the isolation, all prevented them from learning English.

Pride, stubbornness, and a sense of what is proper all conspire to keep many such people from forcing themselves to rely on their kin, if they have any.

The old traditionally nurture those who are younger than them, and most elderly Cantonese women will put aside candy and food to give to young relatives when they visit. Some women are so tied up in this that they will spend far more on food for their grandchildren than on essentials for themselves.
Elderly Cantonese men will put on their one threadbare good suit to visit their offspring’s families for a few short hours, bringing along treats – which may have cost them much of their budget for the rest of the month.
Being unable to feed people who are younger is unbearably shameful for a Chinese person of senior status
It is better to starve, than to neglect obligations – especially this one.
This is so programmed into many old-fashioned people that going against it is impossible.

Additionally, maintaining a pretence that they are able and secure is so fundamental to their sense of self-worth that elderly immigrant Cantonese often successfully hide precisely how desperate they are from their grown children, the children are so used to respecting the dignity of their elders that they are far too scared to ask any difficult questions.
And beyond the family no-one wants to shame their friends and neighbors by pointing out to their relatives what might have been obvious if everyone wasn’t so good at maintaining a facade. Cantonese parents do not want to be a burden to their children, sabotaging the next generation’s success by having themselves failed. The sad thing is that many of them have indeed failed in comparison - the Americanized children are more likely to succeed than their parents.
The generation gap is not only cultural and linguistic – crippling enough! - it is often also economic.
In consequence, there is frequently a measure of estrangement in Chinese-American families that baffles outsiders, who don’t understand that it is precisely because of the distance between parents and children that safe comfort levels can be maintained for all concerned.


THE PERSON ON THE CORNER

Over the months I found out a bit more about the woman – her home-town dialect and my movie-learnt Tsim-Tung goomba patois were not too very far apart, and I can sound like I understand the proper protocols when speaking with the elderly.
She shared cramped living quarters with another woman, and she had a grown-up daughter far away who was happily married. She did not mention her own husband, so I assume that he had passed away years before. She knew how to sew, and she could make coats, shirts, and pants – especially shirts and pants. She would so much like to work again.
She hadn’t seen her daughter in a long time, but they wrote to each other regularly and occasionally talked on the phone. She really wanted to see her daughter, and her grandchild …….. but her daughter couldn’t visit as yet (translation: the old lady must have been paddling furiously to keep her daughter from finding out just how difficult her situation had become).

Nearly every week she would mention her daughter. She was very proud that her daughter had a nice husband, a bright child, a decent life.
She even sent the kid a present - she was on the corner every evening that month. It must have seriously depleted her funds. She looked far more vulnerable than usual.


One day she demonstrated something new she had learned to say in English. She had had a lot of practice, even though it was a word so very recently acquired. Lung cancer.
She had only two or three weeks left to live; she had delayed going to the doctor for so long that it was entirely untreatable. In a few days she was going into the hospital. Her daughter was flying in, with her grandchild. She was distraught that her daughter was spending so much money – but also very glad that she would finally see them again. She was extremely happy.
She thanked me sweetly for helping her so many times. She would have liked to have been able to do something in return, but ………!

I never saw her again.


CHONG CHAU JIT

Yesterday was mid-Autumn, the Moon Festival. For Chinese people, the Moon Festival is a time to spend with family, and many will travel back to their village or the place where they are from to be with their loved ones. Those who are far away think longingly of their own places and their relatives, and fondly indulge in remembering those who are dear to them. Being able to visit kin means incredibly much to people at this time, family is everything.
In their dreams they go back home.

Her daughter and grandchild surely remembered her this week, and will have placed some mooncakes for her on the family altar.



==========================================================================
NOTE: Readers may contact me directly:

LETTER BOX.
All correspondence will be kept in confidence.
==========================================================================

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

MOONCAKES! YAY! MOONCAKES!

The Chinese mid-Autumn festival (中秋節 Chong Chau Jit: fifteenth day of the eighth lunar month) falls today this year. It has long been one of my favourite holidays, but not for most reasons that move the Chinese.
Yes, I appreciate the warm family-connotations, the traditional harvest and home motiefs, and even the symbolism that has in three millennia accreted. Even the connection with the rebellion against the Mongols (元朝 Yuen Chiu: Yuan dynasty, 1280–1368 CE) has immense charm - who isn't stirred by the encouragement to slaughter barbarians?

[八月十五殺韃子 "Baat-yuet sahp-ng saa Tat-jee!" Eighth month fifteen, kill Tatars!]

At present, whacking foreigners is NOT part of the festivities. Murder really isn't a traditional method of celebration among civilized people, at least not anymore. And I'm okay with that. Though sometimes it does seem a pity.

My reasons for enjoying the Mid-Autumn Festival are rather simple and self-indulgent. Childish and pedestrian even.


YUET BING 月餅

What I really like are the pastries - I've always been inordinately fond of mooncakes. They're only available at this time of year.
Long ago I would stockpile boxes of them, to enjoy weeks or months later after they had become unavailable. As my supply dwindled, I'd become more careful of my precious hoard, finally savouring the last one sometime in January or February. It would not be nearly as good as ones eaten in September and October, but it was the last one for a very long time. And therefore, still utterly delicious.

Remarkably, most Caucasians I know aren't particularly taken by mooncakes.
Why is this? Is there something wrong with them?

Maybe it's that all-encompassing American cultural-whiteness. It affects the tastebuds. They don't like raw herring either. Weird.


The two most popular types of mooncake are double yolk refined lotus seedpaste (雙黃白蓮蓉月餅 seung wong pak lien yong yuet bing) and double yolk red bean-paste (雙黃豆沙月餅 seung wong dow sa yuet bing).

[NOTE: Preserved egg-yolk (鹹鴨蛋 haahm-ngaap dan) - One or more whole duck egg yolks nestled in the filling, which adds richness and a slightly salty note, accentuating the sweetness. It the most luxurious and expensive ingredient - the price is higher for mooncakes that have egg yolk.]


Both the lotus seed (蓮蓉 lien yong) paste and the red bean paste (豆沙 dow sa - literally, bean mud) are sweet and slightly rich. Both are very popular flavours for pastries. Dow sa consists of ground boiled azuki beans with sugar and oil.
There's also Ng-yan (五仁): five nut-kernels: pumpkin seed, melon seed, sesame, almond, and walnuts or peanuts) which usually has chunks of candied wintermelon (糖冬瓜 tong tung gwa) mixed in.


BEFORE THEY'RE ALL GONE ...

This time of year there are many imported brands in square tins available at Chinese stores in the Bay Area, even though locally made mooncakes are just as good, and often better.

The best sources for locally made mooncakes are Mee Mee (美美餅食公司) on Stockton, and the Eastern Bakery (東亞餅家) on Grant.


MEE MEE BAKERY 美美餅食公司
1328 Stockton Street (between Vallejo and Broadway)
San Francisco, CA 94133.
(415) 362-3204

EASTERN BAKERY 東亞餅家
720 Grant Avenue (btwn Sacramento and Clay, corner of Commercial Alley)
San Francisco, CA 94108
(415) 433-7973


Now, though I thoroughly recommend both businesses listed above, most of my mooncakes this year as every year will be imported. The reason being the handsome tins that they come in, four cakes per container.
Local bakeries use decorated boxes, Hong Kong and Taiwanese manufacturers package the pastries in tins.
I'm a bit odd that way - I like the tins too. Useful. And stackable.

----------------------------------------------------------------

POST SCRIPTUM

If you are Jewish or vegetarian, please read the label on the tin or box carefully. There may be treifigkeit present, especially in the dough, and it might also be present in the filing. The Chinese tend to use lard shortening as their baking grease of choice - it makes pastries scrumptious, crispy, flaky, besides adding a yummy mouth-feel.
Pork products have the status of minhag. Just like shrimp and lobster. If you are Chinese.



==========================================================================
NOTE: Readers may contact me directly:

LETTER BOX.
All correspondence will be kept in confidence.
==========================================================================

Search This Blog

GRITS AND TOFU

Like most Americans, I have a list of people who should be peacefully retired from public service and thereafter kept away from their desks,...