Showing posts with label Hyde Street. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hyde Street. Show all posts

Friday, October 03, 2014

BEGINNING AND ENDING WITH NIGHT

How does twilight smell in the tropics? Earthy, often with a touch of smoke. But twilight barely lasts long enough to even notice; one moment it is bright day, the next instant all is hued in overwhelming darkness.
Night, without the lights of streetlamps and nearby dwellings, is pitch-black. A few moments ago the bugs were racketing, now they've fallen silent and many other noises from far off will come to the fore.
There are insects in the fields, as well as frogs.
Did something nearby just slither?
Or am I imagining things?

Sometimes there is a heady fragrance: night blooming jasmine.

The hot tea in the thermos flasks on the kitchen table is weak, but has changed from pale yellow to a pinkish hue, because it was made much earlier, and some of the leaves were poured in also.
One should not drink the water unboiled.
Weak tea is always better.

Things smell different in a humid hot climate, almost everything ferments. One does not notice it while there, but it is distinctly missing elsewhere.


San Francisco also has "fragrances". No, this isn't a hot humid climate, more like a temperate part of the cold zone. But every intersection in the downtown area seems to reflect a different version of the Roman sewer system.

There are bus stops I seldom use, because they remind me of foul things and unsanitary accidents. Mostly in the flat zone near the Embarcadero, where the water is stagnant. Someone once remarked that the dominant stink of the city is urine, but he was wrong. It is a much richer spectrum of effluvium, with a malevolent depth and breadth.
Plus briny hints from the bay.


THE BACK OF NOB HILL

Once you get uphill the odour changes. Here grow mayten, cajeput, magnolia, water gum, cherry plum, Australian tea tree, brisbane box, sweet michelia, Chinese banyan, and cow itch. They have smells.
But very subtle. The aromas of cooking are barely shaded.

There are growths of crimson-purple bougainvillea in late summer.

Hyde Street between Clay and Broadway is a leafy dark hollow during the day, cool in warm weather, and a glowing tunnel under the trees at night, comforting.

Seven small restaurants. Two of which are wine bars (Cafe Meuse, Seven Hills), two Chinese eateries (U-Lee, Sun Kwong) , a French bistro (Cocotte) , a seafood place (the Hyde Street Seafood House), and a healthy food cafe and wine bar (Nook) on the corner, which is a nice candle-lit place to share a bottle of red with a friend.
Excepting Nook, all are great places for food.
The last one is also, for Vegans.
I've heard it's good.
Never tried.

[NOTE REGARDING U-LEE: Alas, it has closed after thirty years, because of the usual San Francisco reason, that being that their lease went through the roof. It is VERY tempting for San Francisco landlords to jack up the rent on commercial property, in the hopes of making obscene profits, and really, who cares? There are so many outsiders coming in that even a grotty backroom in an unmaintained building uphill may seem like a potential gold mine. 
U-Lee is planning to re-open out on Balboa.]

The Cablecar turns at Jackson and Hyde.
It runs often, but is filled with tourists.
Best just to walk over the hill.


LA RUE VIEILLE DU TOISHAN

I rather like the ride on the Pacific buses, which from Stockton to Hyde have Chinese moms and their children, old gentlemen who play chess down in Portsmouth Square, college kids, and very frazzled office workers who resent the presence of all these yellow people.
It is far too packed to read text messages!
Oh, the frustration!

There used to be raccoons who lived in this neighborhood. I haven't seen them in a while, maybe they passed away. There are crows, still, and one can often hear parrots making a racket as they fly overhead.
Sometimes a cat slinks by late at night.

When it rains, you should be here at three o'clock in the morning.
It's very beautiful at that time.
Fresh, fragrant.

Quiet.



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Sunday, September 21, 2014

BEGIN WITH FISH; END WITH PORKY BITS

From somewhere near the sushi restaurant, the sound of a car horn advertised either an intruder or a jangly set of vehicular nerves.
None of the young twenty-something beautiful people at dinner deigned to notice; it would have meant admitting that their gustatory delight might not be more pressing than the peace of the neighborhood, and, quite frankly, they did not care.
Let the locals suffer a bit; this fish was to die for!

Squeeeee!!!!!!

Soon a cinder block put an end to the car's misery.
The sushi-eating masses heard the thump, and most of them assumed that an accident had taken place at the next intersection, if the sound registered at all. Several were too busy talking with their mouths full to even consider what might have happened, and, in any case, it did not concern them.

It had been a brand-new car. The dealer plates indicated as much.
One of the people in the restaurant would have a bad weekend.
His expensive blonde date would have to uber home.
She'd send him a bill later.


Mr. Badger had not been noticed by humans when he cinder-blocked the vehicle, none of the nearby residents had bothered to look outside. They were happy that the noise had come to an end, and did not really care why or how. If they had known that the person who had parked did not even live on this street, they would've sincerely applauded the casual destruction; they usually had difficulty finding a spot within less than three or four blocks of their apartments.

The small stocky figure moved briskly up the street, toward the top of the hill. In the haze, he appeared to be merely a short individual with a fuzzy outline, few people would look close enough to realize that he was an urban wild animal. The pipe lent a human-like quality in any case, as did the snazzy hat.
When the fog rolls in, visibility fades; very few individuals will wonder at the moving shadows beyond the streetlights.


From his perch on the roof, Mr. Crow had seen the incident with the car and the cinderblock. He envied his friend's dexterity and leverage. Much as he would have wished to drop cement on a loud car, all he could manage was a jar of Bonne Maman damson preserves.

It was, in fact, his jar of Bonne Maman damson preserves that had set off the alarm. He should have let it fall on the pavement instead, but he had merely wanted to bust it open, not smash it utterly.
The aforementioned deficit in dexterity and leverage had made it impossible to enjoy his purchase.
The next time, he'd ask the clerk to loosen the lid before he left the store.
Damned jar still wasn't open! He would never get his sweetness!
It had just bounced off the hood, then rolled down.

Disconsolately, he picked up the thirteen-ounce jar, and sped off up the street to find the badger. Who might be willing to twist the top, and perhaps even agree to prepare a few slices of buttered toast.


The wild woods ended at the top of the slope. He found Mr. Badger behind the row of buildings, comfortably hunkered out of the wind behind a low brick wall with grass growing out of the top and sides. The beast was busily twiddling with his pipe, running a cleaner through the shank and blowing into it to remove ashes and scraps of tobacco. When he saw the crow, his eyes lit up and his snout twitched. He grunted a friendly greeting.
They were old friends; both preferred the same patches of shrubbery and unkempt areas behind the apartments.

Mr. Crow mentioned his quandary, and Mr. Badger immediately agreed to provide the muscle. And, indeed, there would be toast! And melted butter! It would be a little feast, and he'd even make a pot of tea!

Of course, he'd have to wake up the household rats.....

Household rats?

Mr. Crow was baffled. What household rats?

"Well", Mr. Badger explained, "since they tore down the old church at Larkin and Clay, I've been living underneath the school between Washington and Jackson, just below Hyde."
This still didn't explain 'household rats'. What was up with that?

"There was a colony of brown rats already occupying some of the space, and as long as I scared off the neighborhood felines, they were happy to provide access and share their territory. They still worry too much, and consequently tend to sleep as close to my quarters as possible."

"Making toast is sure to rouse them."

Mr. Crow found this a little disturbing; he'd long been accustomed to think of rats as flightless pigeons, and he detested the pigeons. Although he was not averse to stealing a fresh egg or two. Or three.
So delicious, and it kept the population in check.

Mr. Badger assured him that aside from being hooked on cigarettes, and chainsmokers to boot, the rats were harmless, and perfectly well-behaved.
And they had never even bitten any of the school children.
Despite, at times, extreme provocation!
Kids could be so irritating!

Apparently the racket the little tykes made kept the rodents up all day. Mr. Badger wasn't bothered -- he could sleep through a bombardment if he had too -- but the necessary change in their habits had not been easy on the rats, and they kept sending indignant letters to the editor about it.
Good thing that their handwriting was far too tiny to read.
Otherwise it would've let the cat out of the bag.
About their occupancy of the premises.
Right underneath a school.

Anyhow, prolix missives on stationery the size of a fingernail simply look like smudged confetti to the unsharpened eye, and the once esteemed San Francisco Chronicle nowadays employed near-illiterate graduates of third-rate journalism programs, instead of the curious Harvard men of yore.
Newsprint media was a dying breed; who the heck would care what cheese-eaters scribbled in their ire, or how well they expressed it?
All their eloquence ended up in the garbage.
Unopened.


As it turned out, the rats were a thoughtful bunch, and pretty intellectual. They made full use of the school library after hours, and particularly liked the reference section. Even in daylight they could often be found on those shelves, quite undisturbed, because all of the students simply looked for answers on the internet.
The Encyclopedia Britannica is a boon to small creatures.
Why, there's just so much wonderful stuff inside!
High concepts, fascinating articles!

Because the rats kept discussing Satre, Kierkegaard, and Heidegger, in those irritating rapid-fire squeaky voices, Mr. Badger and Mr. Crow left them near the hearth with a plate, and went out to enjoy their tea and toast at the far end of the playground, where the wall holds back the slope.  From the streets on either side of the school property there came occasional noises -- cars parking or residents returning home late -- but no one noticed them in the darkness, the neighborhood cats did not disturb them, and there were no pigeons roosting overhead.

As they chatted, two old ladies with walkers went up one of the streets. One of them thought she recognized Mr. Badger, and nodded at him. It was a case of mistaken identity, because he wasn't who she believed he was, but she had met him years ago when she was still a little girl, and he remembered her.
He had returned her little red ball to her when it rolled through the basement window of the church. She had visited him often after that, until she went to grammar school and eventually forgot.
She had been a really sweet child, with a wondrous imagination.
Eighty years later her dreams were still full of badgers.


Mr. Crow also recognized her; she had growled at pigeons once, when she thought no one was watching. He had thought that very amusing, and liked her for it.
He promised Mr. Badger he'd keep an eye out for the old lady.
One should always keep the local old folks in mind.
They are what defines the neighborhood.

When they went back to wash the cups and saucers, some of the rats were arguing heatedly about existentialism, while others were cheerfully singing the Philosophers Song and quoting Monty Python.
Insane and irrepressible creatures, those rodents.
And actually rather likable.


Later, as he bid Mr. Badger a good night and thanked him for his hospitality, a posse of rats asked him if he wanted to join them on a raid of the local liquor store. They had run out of cigarettes entirely, and craved several packs of Camel Filter Kings. Was he interested?

No, he wasn't. He only smoked once in a while.
And then only cigars. A thoughtful habit.
But thanks for the invite!


On Hyde street, garbage trucks trundling past, softly in the middle of the night. A little further on he smelled bacon-wrapped hotdogs being grilled by a Mexican at the corner just outside the Wreck Room. He landed and joined the small line, ordering 'uno, por favor, con todo'. One, with everything. He had no intention of actually eating the bun, but he really loved the combination of 'byproduct' sausage and crispy pork strips, especially with those dangerous chiles en escabeche.

None of the bar patrons noshing on their own dogs bothered him. They knew better than to start something when the other fellow had a beak.
Late night boozehounds in San Francisco are a savvy lot.
Besides, they admired the Goth thing he had going on.


When he flapped back home later, he wasn't aware of the yellow smear of mustard on his forehead. It made him look dissipated.
Like he had had a jolly good time.
Which was true.



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Monday, May 20, 2013

THIS IS THE PLACE

Once a week, for the past twenty years, I have been at the intersection of Pacific and Hyde Streets after two-thirty in the morning.  It is the perfect place to have that last cigarillo of the night before going home to sleep.

To my mind it is one of the most beautiful spots in the city.
Especially after dark.

Hyde Street for one block south presents a lovely bistro-lined cave-tunnel between leafy trees, with a number of little eateries worth visiting -- Hyde Street Seafood House & Raw Bar, for instance: fresh oysters, clams, mussels, and fish en papillote -- ending at Jackson Street, where on one corner Sun Kwong (新光) Chinese Restaurant and Food To-go holds sway, diagonally opposite the bend in the cablecar line where U-Lee (有利飯店) has been serving contented customers for decades. Both eateries are good. Small, nothing fancy, but offering decent food well made, in an environment that will make you happy. Nice places, nice people.
I recommend both restaurants and hope that they endure.
They've been there a very long time already.
In this city, that means something.

In the evening, Hyde from Washington to Broadway, then up to Union, is shady, leafy, intimate. A beautiful place to wander around and make plans for fine dining. Zarzuela (tapas y paellas) at the corner of Union marks the end of the dinner-dream walk. The tourists riding the cablecar seldom get off here, as they are intent on 'going somewhere'. That being either the wharf or the turnaround at Powell and Market.
Hyde Street is not 'somewhere'.
It just is.
The locals know it, and if they do not live right nearby will take the effort to come. Food is a draw, strong coffee or a glass of wine too, but the magnet is mostly the pleasant calm leafiness of the neighborhood. Nob and Russian Hill are less pretentious here, slightly more out of the way despite being crossed by many transit lines, and the rest of San Francisco seems far distant. It isn't North Beach, where the loud Eurotrashers party all night, nor Polk or Union Street, filled with throngs of hormonally challenged twenty-somethings preening and rutting till closing time.

Merely a quiet tree-lined passageway among the dwellings.

Hyde and Pacific enrobed in drifting fog in Autumn, or drenched by late-night downpours during the rainy season, is otherworldly and peaceful.
You cannot be impatient at three o'clock in the morning, you took your own sweet time to get here, there is nothing else to do but drink it in.
And light up another cigarillo.

Golden light.
Silver air.
Smoke.


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Monday, January 07, 2013

FEAR THE WEASEL, LOVE THE WEASEL!

Weasels are much maligned creatures.  Both in literature and popular culture, weasels are described as bloodthirsty, murderous, and harbingers of ill-omen.

What nonsense.
From Wikipedia: "They are small, active predators, long and slender..."

If I didn't already know that a mustelid was being described, I would assume that the author of that sentence was talking about the ideal woman.


LITHE-MINDED INDIVIDUALS

It will probably not surprise you to discover that I have always liked weasels. Much like I am fond of badgers, raccoons, and many other animals.
It's refreshing to see goal-driven intelligences at work, and the more a creature can upset the applecart or get away with murder, the more I tend to admire it.

That raccoon-proof garbage can is not really raccoon-proof, you know. And you've likely given him a challenge he cannot resist. If he had his druthers, he would prefer to dine at that little French bistro on Hyde Street, wearing a coat and tie, and generously tipping the waitstaff, especially after the roast duck and foie gras.....

But he seriously wants to see the expression on your face when you discover that the raccoon lock is busted, the coffee grounds have been thrown at your window, the banana peels festively festoon your brand-new Prius, and the chicken carcass which you should have used for soup stock is now in your letter box.

And your teenage daughter has run off with Mr. Raccoon.
He's clearly a very intelligent and witty fellow.
With a wickedness that's magnetic!

Just because they're furry doesn't mean they can't outfox you.


Even weasels. Especially weasels. Mr. Weasel wants your chickens, you are powerless to resist. Attempts to eradicate his kind as pests have merely resulted in the more intelligent ones contributing much more to the mustelian gene pool. At this point, they're qualified to run for congress.
In another few generations they'll be running the banks.
And collecting European art.
Surrender now.

"Small active predators, long and slender"

I cannot help but wonder what a dinner date with a young female weasel would be like.  Probably very exciting, from a food and company point of view. For one thing, she'd be keenly interested in meat. And seafood.
And tasty crustaceans.
For another, she would probably insist that we leave a very generous tip if the service was good, and burn the blasted place down if it wasn't.

Miss, why are you carrying a jerry-can instead of a Vuitton handbag?
Oh I see - it's the culturally accepted equivalent for your kind.

Weasels are small enough that they can sit ON the table. Instead of at it. Maybe she'd want the food to-go. Fois gras, roast duck, and fresh fresh chicken for a picnic. Crusty loaf, bottle of wine, tablecloth, and cutlery.
Indeed, a veritable feast!
Followed by cigarillos, and chucking garbage at the tourists.
Or raiding the fish-markets to liberate the lobster!
And reunite it with an old friend: mayonnaise!

I'll get you home by nine, sweetheart, 'cause I'm scared of your dad. He's still carrying a grudge from the Toad Hall incident. And he's a meanie.
As well as being my tax-accountant.


Somebody needs to write a story about nice weasels, showing them as the gallant, independent-minded, creative individuals that they are. Lovable and ferocious, and precisely the kind of people you want your children to know.

Well, except for the part where they stole the cutlery.
Might want to avoid mentioning that.
That was 'regrettable'.







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Sunday, December 30, 2012

HABITS OF THE SOCIAL ANIMAL

Scattered drifts whirl around in the cold wind, and Nob Hill at twilight presents an antique image. We do not burn the fallen leaves, there is no smell of distant fires.
But the fragrance of my pipe provides a dissident note.

The views yesterday were splendid, the Bay is beautiful on a clear winter day.
 I rarely pause to admire the vistas of Angel Island or Alcatraz, and regarding the Golden Gate Bridge, it is at it's best when you cross it in fog.
But I do not tire of the streetscapes in my part of the city; the slopes of the hills -- Nob, Telegraph, Russian -- and the narrow one-way streets that cross over, as well as stretches that are dense with trees, such as Hyde Street between Washington and Broadway. That, probably, is my favourite stroll. It is near the apartment, and far enough uphill that neither alcoholics nor tourists infest it much, though they roll through on the cablecar periodically. This is a mixed neighborhood, with shops and many small restaurants, some very inexpensive, some far less so.
Perfect for a stroll and a pipe at teatime as the scant daylight of December fades.

Years ago there were half a dozen bookstores within ten minutes easy walk of home. For reasons I need not detail there is only one left. There are fewer "destinations" for the wandering bachelor, and though there are coffee shops a-plenty, you will understand that besides being non-smoking environments, they too no longer present a welcome end of the journey.
There's something off-putting about places filled with yuppy cellphone yack or laptop frenzy. Do people even own books anymore?
If so, how did they buy them, and where do they read?


I suspect that walking around with a book nowadays is similar in some ways to showing a visible disease. Unsettling, and evidence of tree-murder and deviance.

Much like enjoying a pipe.
But at least I have earthmother repellent.
It's at full blast, offending greenie-weenies wherever I go.


If certain old-fashioned vices don't displease you, you could join me.


You might end up smelling faintly smoky, though.


I hope you don't mind.


We can read a bit.


Some tea?






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Monday, November 26, 2012

QUIET AMONG THE LEAVES

Years ago I loved autumn in Valkenswaard.  North Brabant, in fall, has marvelous colours and smells, and in addition to the tannic odour of the forests around town and the golds and bronzes along the roads through the farm areas, there were parts in the very centre of Valkenswaard which where glorious. Though modest about it; one had to be receptive and attuned. Most people will probably not see much special in small streets with low mean houses jammed together, with drifts of crunchy leaves along the very narrow sidewalks.

One such street terminated at the triangular square outside the factory gates of Willem II Cigars, one of the last rolling enterprises in a town whose prosperity had grown up in smoke.
There were trees there. Many trees. Early in the morning the fecund pong of fermenting tobacco from Indonesia and the Caribbean already dominated the air, combining with a dusty reek from fallen leaves in deep drifts along the eastern edge, where a row of drinking establishments welcomed the working classes.
Those bars were not open then, but one previous evenings they had been doing a booming business.
Stable adults early on, gradually replaced by younger wilder individuals, till at midnight the future of the town seemed entirely doubtful - the generation that would inherit the place seemed composed entirely of crazed yobbos listening to bad music.

Word to the wise: only drink with mature individuals.
There's less chance of insanity that way.


THE NATIVE CLAIM TO FAME

The smell of cigars, both in the manufacturing stage, and post-production, was a background perfume for the entire town. Old men smoked stubby bolknak cigars (a bolknak is a turd-like torpedo shape, thick in the middle and narrowing at both ends, like Anne Elk's brontosaurus), refined ladies in their middle years, who knew what they wanted, favoured half-coronas or tuit-knakjes (a tuit-knak is like a bolknak, but shorter and more elegant, often better tobacco), gallant young men preferred "wild" cheroots with an untrimmed floss at the end, or senoritas, which are rather like a lancero in ring gauge, but only half that length. There were many shapes, and a multitude of qualities.
Local cigars were mostly machine-made products, but only a few generations ago half the town spent all their time stripping central veins from leaves, layering the tobacco to ferment and mature, spraying on moisture to make it pliable, then bunching, and rolling the cigars by hand. The finished products were once sold as far afield as Moscow and Saint Petersburg, but were most avidly consumed within the narrow Netherlandish confine.

In Autumn, around the fabriekspoort square, the dominant leaf was quite unsmokeable, but delightfully crisp underfoot. Especially just after dawn, when the fog that had blanketed the town overnight still sluggishly dissipated. Trees lined the street that led indirectly to the Kleine Markt and the Leenderweg, and with scarcely any other souls about one could imagine oneself in another world. From somewhere a fragrance of coffee might drift, to remind one that the day was starting soon. Occasionally a passing bicyclist would ride crunchily through a sea of fallen leaves, providing the only sound so early.
Halflight eventually gave way to day.

Obviously these are fond memories. Willem II cigars are no longer made in Valkenswaard, and the Hofnar factory also closed down years ago.
Tobacco has ceased to be a significant element of local life.
But there is a museum that shows artifacts from that age.


AN ELSEWHERE ECHO

Here in San Francisco, cigars stopped being made far further back. The tabacaleras that once occupied industrial hutchings and basements in Chinatown disappeared at least a generation before the world war. Cigar smokers in this day and age are considered irredeemably depraved, possibly even conservative! Quelle horreur!
Enlightened people pull up their narrow noses at even the concept.
Damned wheatgerm freaks.

There are many trees along Hyde Street, past Washington both sides are dense with foliage. At intersections lights fade and flicker among the trembling leaves, and when fog covers the city at night glowing orbs at regulated distances guide the sight in four directions.
My friend the bookselling amphibian and I will once a week smoke a few cigarillos together at the end of an evening, after having contemplatively enjoyed some whiskey at a place whose name I will not mention, because I do not wish it to become any more popular than it is.
Long after closing time we will wander up Pacific between Nob and Telegraph, till we come to Hyde Street. Here we stop for the final smoke before parting.
It is my favourite intersection.
Quite otherworldly at three in the morning, and timeless at that time.

It always reminds me of the triangle outside the cigar factory.
It is the same, but not the same; it is different, but equivalent.

And, at times, it is fragrant.


Last night Nob Hill was beautiful in the fog.
Now is Autumn, there are fallen leaves.
I just thought you should know.
You were probably asleep.




TOBACCO INDEX


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Sunday, August 19, 2012

PACIFIC AVENUE

There are stretches here between Chinatown and Polk Street that because of the trees present a pattern of speckled shadows cast on the pavement from the streetlights at night. This is most noticeable after a brief rain, when the air is cleaner and crisper and the light contrast more sharply with the darkness.
Usually fog smoothes out the sharp edges.


Pacific Avenue long after dusk is one of the most enjoyable short walks in my neighborhood. The incline is gradual, and it takes little effort to crest the hill. For two blocks it is level, before descending down to Polk. There used to be sewing factories in every block, but the last one may have closed over a year ago. It’s become a little “gentrified” – that is to say, many of the shop fronts are now ‘art spaces’, which means that something odd is in the window to indicate serious aesthetic labours within, and a full curtain hides what is beyond. Which, usually, is a young couple, possibly tattooed and pierced, living a Bohemian life in a city very far away from their bourgeois families elsewhere in this country.

Sometimes they have parties.

At three in the morning, after it’s all over, the attendees stumble home to their own art spaces. Depending on how erratic their zombie-shuffle, one gives them a wide berth. Not that they might erupt, but they’ve been known to crash into large easily avoidable walls.
Which jump right out at them.


During the day, Pacific Avenue can be described as 'Le Rue Vieille du 台山', traversed largely by country Cantonese who live above the art spaces and store fronts, as well as further uphill on the several cross streets. There are two bus lines that pass along in either direction, and except for rush hours it is rare to see white people riding. Leastways, rare for the Caucasian element to dominate.
Right around six p.m. there may be standing room only, as the conveyance fills up with Cantonese people lugging home fresh vegetables and seafood to prepare for dinner. Unlike the artistic types, they know how to cook, and do not eat out nearly every night.
There is an Italian Restaurant between Larkin and Hyde, and a Spanish joint at Mason Street. As well as a Wine Bar (Café Meuse) right on the intersection of Hyde.

Green leaves, yellow lights, and drifting mist.
The sound of cablecars heading down Hyde Street after turning north at Jackson.
Fat raccoons ambling up from Trenton, where they investigated the garbage cans outside West Ping Yuen beneath the tall leafy trees. Empty green painted wooden racks under the awnings of the Cheung Hing Market on the corner of Powell Street, not too far from both the Kam Po (excellent roast meats till around eight) and Ma's Dim Sum & Café, where all the way till early evening one may eat superior dishes with that real home town taste. Good food.


There are quiet alleyways in the sloping blocks on either side of Pacific: Lynch, Bernard, Phoenix Terrace, Salmon and Auburn, John, Wayne Place.......
Crows, pigeons, seagulls, cats, possum.
Something dark and glowering.
I know that it eats fish.
Maybe a demon.



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Monday, December 07, 2009

FUR COATS ON NOB HILL

There are lovely houses on Jackson Street between Hyde and Larkin.
I noticed this again late one night as I was heading home. Old-style, modest apartment buildings - two or three floors, two apartments to the floor. One imagines spacious for a couple, or a little tight for a young family. That block is not as populated as nearby streets, given both the buildings, and a school located in the middle.


The intersection of Hyde and Jackson looks charming in the middle of the night. I had almost forgotten that.


Several months ago the bookseller and I were crossing the hill when ahead of us we noticed two huge furry raccoons at the intersection of Pacific and Hyde. They crossed with the green light, and we could see them very calmly and methodically checking each doorway all the way up Hyde Street, alternating hopscotch-like from house to house. The pair had a system, and were in no hurry. I think they paused for the light at Hyde and Jackson, but I'm not entirely sure.
They acted just like an old couple at peace in each other's company.
It would have been cute if they had been smaller. At their size, they owned the street.

The neighborhood is bounded on the west by Van Ness Avenue, on the south by the demilitarized zone (the five block wide stretch between California and Geary Streets), on the north by Vallejo, and on the east by Chinatown. Some parts are heavily Chinese - especially "le Rue de Toishan" (Pacific Avenue) and Hyde and Larkin Streets - whereas the top of Nob Hill is mostly wasp.
Downslope areas are more ethnically diverse - Chinese-Americans, white immigrants from the palest Midwest, Mexicans, Middle-Easterners, a few subcontinentals ...........
And raccoons.

It used to be more whitey-white, as attested by the six or seven churches within a few blocks of my apartment. Three of them are now Chinese, one of the others is abandoned, the remaining two have congregations from outside the area (or their members are too darn lazy to walk a few blocks). In the past, such a wealth of churches attracted 'white' families - a good solid neighborhood in which to raise children.
Now, I suspect, precisely that attracts the raccoons. It's still a good solid neighborhood in which to raise children.
Furry children.

Nob Hill, from Stockton Street to Polk, probably has the savviest bunch of raccoons in the Bay Area. Big, succesful, and self-confident.
Raccoons with a bourgeois attitude, civilized fellow residents of the neighborhood.
To the best of my knowledge, none of them has EVER been arrested for disturbing the peace.

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GRITS AND TOFU

Like most Americans, I have a list of people who should be peacefully retired from public service and thereafter kept away from their desks,...