Showing posts with label 中秋. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 中秋. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 13, 2023

IT'S AUTUMN

The customary pub crawl was different. Having picked something else than the usual rat-watching pipe, this was probably to be expected. While smoking where I usually wait for the book seller I was entertained by a balding nut case having a vituperative discussion with an overflowing garbage can -- truly urban America at its finest -- as well as visually intrigued by a cute Chinese woman with lovely legs walking up Grant Avenue with her boyfriend.
As you would guess, I cannot remember if he was Caucasian or Chinese.
He wasn't wearing a skirt. She was. Good gracious.

Skirts on women can be very nice.

On men, much less so.

Even Scots.

I cannot remember ever seeing a Scot poncing around in his woolen skirt and saying to myself "oh my how zesty!" Or even thinking that his knees had been crafted by a master. Some weird Caledonian Michelangelo, if such a being could exist. Instead, upon seeing Scotmen in their native garb I've often remembered the passage from Boswell describing the knee-length red hair of a Celtic woman's lower regions by which he and the good doctor were fascinated, which indicates that sight-seeing was taken far more seriously in that day and age, as well as the lovely partan bree that my ex occasionally made.

[Partan Bree: Scottish crab soup, made with crab meat, seafood broth, cream, rice, and sherry, plus the usual aromatics used in European cooking.]


It is far better to be reminded of delicious food than that Boswell and Johnson were a bunch of ruddy perverts.

Given that the weather is colder than we expected for this time of year, it looks like we've gone from Summer (freezing and foggy) straight into Fall without an intervening hot spell.
I hope it continues like this.

In Oracle Bone Script (甲骨文 'kaap gwat man'; current four thousand years ago), the word for autumn was 𥤚 of which 𪛁 is a variant. A millet stalk being harvested on one side, with a turtle standing in for a cricket or locust, over fire. The modern form 秋 preserves the millet stalk (禾) and fire (火).
甲骨文、大篆的秋字。

There is a muppetness to it which is quite charming, common among many old characters.

Autumn is the season of pumpkin spice and queer tobacco mixtures flavoured with candy, apples, spices, and whatever the berserk blender thought would appeal to big rig truckdrivers huffing cheap basket pipes or corncobs, such as the weirdo who unfriended me on Facebook seven years ago when he found out I despised Donald Trump. A stupid babboon (一個傻狒).

There was a seasonally appropriate bulk blend available years ago aggressively souped up with fermented pôhpukun and cloves, and enough propylene glycol to sink a battleship, that was popular in primitive parts of the country among the slope-browed huntn' shootn' fishn' types, which fortunately never became popular in this neck of the woods. Our Fall tastes run to lotus seed paste or red bean paste with sugar and shortening, and one or two salted egg yolks, baked in a pastry crust that rather resembles shortbread.
We're rather old fashioned that way.
Mooncakes.

[單黃蓮蓉 ('daan wong lin yung'): single yolk lotus seed. 雙黃蓮蓉 ('seung wong lin yung'): double yolk lotus seed. 單黃豆沙 ('daan wong dau saa'): single yolk red bean. 雙黃豆沙 ('seung wong dau saa'): double yolk red bean.]


Many people are grateful that those are NOT aromatic tobacco flavours.
As, selbstverständlich, am I as well.


It's only a matter of time before someone invents a smoking mixture that tastes like candy corn, maybe with Fireball added. Which would be a sign for the End of Times.
Joe, if you're reading this, do NOT suggest it to Jeremy!


No, I don't smoke queer shiznit like that even when Halloween looms. It only encourages people. Precisely the folks who should not be encouraged. A friend in Mississippi lives for pumpkins and boo-decorating. She's been known to stuff aromatics in her pipe, as well as wear pointy black hats. In another week or so her front yard will look like a charnell house, with bones, bloody sheets, and mock-up corpses everywhere.

It must be the heat. It affects people's brains.
Either that or tropical fevers.
It's hot there.
Cornell & Diehl Steamworks in a favourite old briar. Which would have been followed by a stop at the burger place, but it was packed, so we headed over to a burrito joint, then to a friendly bar. Because the karaoke dive was insane, we strolled over to the bus afterwards with our cigarillos. An early-ish evening. Other than the noisy bits, it was quiet.



==========================================================================
NOTE: Readers may contact me directly:
LETTER BOX.
All correspondence will be kept in confidence.
==========================================================================

Tuesday, September 21, 2021

THE MID AUTUMN FESTIVAL

During the hottest part of the day I ventured to a chachanteng where, two years ago, I had suffered immensely from the heat (because my circulation doesn't work so well during a heat wave; my blood is too thick for California, I've never been able to properly explain myself in this climate ... ). That had been an interesting day. I was determined to do it better this time.

Bitter melon omelette over rice (涼瓜煎蛋飯 'leung gwaa jin daan faan'), and Hong Kong Milk Tea (港式奶茶: 'gong-sik naai-cha'). Sometimes my food decisions are boringly predictable.

The twitchy dude was there -- he's probably the cousin whom everyone looks out for, some kind of physical malfunction -- and it became apparent that the staff themselves intended to feast during hot weather. Steamed fish (which looked lovely), three choi dishes, and deep fried pumpkin fritters, plus chicken. Eight people. Their lunch lasted longer than mine.

Over their heads the television showed a travel journalist visiting Pingtan (平潭) in Fujian province, a fishing village with delicious crabs, oysters, and razorback clams. First out on the water. Then in the evening barbecuing the catch on a rooftop with the family. A little girl ecstatic about the prospect of a feast, cute as the dickens in her happiness. And her two smaller sisters. Oh boy, food! Company! People! Deliciousness! Staying up late!

When Chinese people are happy because of food, it's often because it also means togetherness, family, not being alone, a sense of belonging and community.
And all kinds of other good connotations.

When solitary Dutch Americans are happy because of food, it's because it tastes yummy, they can listen in on other people and observe them discreetly, the place where they are eating means something to them, there's no rush, and good heavens this is great with a sploodge of hot sauce. We aren't as social.
Went into Hang Ah Alley afterwards, eventually ending up sitting in Spofford for the remainder of my pipe. The local residents there like to live outdoors in this weather. Afterwards did some shopping, and dragged myself over to a bakery to rest for two hours waiting for the day to cool down. My legs (because of heat and circulation) were throbbing and limp.


I did not need anymore milk tea, nor the pastry. But I didn't want to rely on their tolerance without spending money. Observing the throngs of people (mostly Chinese) eagerly buying mooncakes was quite enjoyable. One of the newest flavours is "fragrant leaf" (香葉 'heung yip'), which is pandan or screwpine, a plant native to Malaysia, Indonesia, and Indochina, whose leaves or essence are much loved as a fragrance or enhancer of other ingredients. Delicate yet intense. Excellent with chocolate, chiffon cake, coconut fudge, and curries.


At the bus stop on the way home had a chat with two young ladies about durian.
Which they love, and I'm on the fence about. It's one of those things.
There are durian mooncakes. Which I have not wished to try.



Today was the mid-Autumn festival. Eighth month, fifteenth day. Togetherness, family, not being alone, a sense of belonging, and community.



==========================================================================
NOTE: Readers may contact me directly:
LETTER BOX.
All correspondence will be kept in confidence.
==========================================================================

Thursday, September 16, 2021

LONELY SAILS

For a long time among reasonably educated people, partings would provoke polite sadness and restrained melodrama. Travel was difficult, slow, and dangerous, mail was unreliable and often so after-the-fact as to be almost fictional, and the chances of ever seeing another person again after a posting to a distant corner of the known world rather slim. Generations of colonial civil servants, when and if they ever returned, could not reassemble the parts of their past lives and found little more than loose ends. The same with Roman administrators, officers of caliphates, Chinese scholar-officials, and émigrés to the new world.

That, and more rampant disease meant that things would never be the same.
Nowadays, of course, Batavia, Bengal, and the malarial wastelands in Ling Nan are only a few hours away. The mails are more reliable and faster, there are telephones and social media.

When Li Bai (李白 'lei baak') and Meng Haoran (孟浩然 'maang hou-yin') parted at the Yellow Crane Pavilion in Wuhan (武漢 'mou hon'), over twelve centuries ago -- Meng heading toward Yangchow (揚州 'yeung jou') -- they wrote this poem:

故人西辭黃鶴樓
煙花三月下揚州
孤帆遠影碧空盡
唯見長江天際流

[黃鶴樓送孟浩然之廣陵 -- 李白]


Translation (sort of): An old companion departs for the west at the Yellow Crane Tower, in the mists and blossoms of the third month he heads to Yangzhou. A lonely sail slowly disappears into the blue expanse, only leaving the Long River flowing to the horizon in sight.

[What reminded me of the poem was the mention of Yellow Crane Tower Cigarettes (黃鶴樓煙 'wong hok lau yin') , a popular brand overseas. Suitable as respectful gifts during holidays, or for special occasions, and as mementoes.]


Over the past year and a half, some friends passed away from various causes.
Regrettably I had not seen them in many months.

A few days ago I remembered classmates and former friends and associates in Valkenswaard. Having left so long ago, it is doubtful that they think of me these days, and unlikely that we'll ever meet again. There is nothing there to go back to.

Probably just as well.

So much has changed in the intervening years.


In early Autumn it is natural to think of such things. The Moon Festival, a return to school, the cultural memory of harvest time and the common seasonal endeavors .....


I wish I had seen those friends before their passing. They were good people. The world seems less with them gone. I'll make sure to keep in contact with the folks who remain.
And see them again once the pandemic is over.




==========================================================================
NOTE: Readers may contact me directly:
LETTER BOX.
All correspondence will be kept in confidence.
==========================================================================

Thursday, September 09, 2021

A FULL GOLDEN TIME

At this time of year we remember the Red Turban Rebellions (紅巾起義 'hung gan hei yi') against the foreign dynasty nearly seven centuries ago. And, given the huge resettlements ordered in the first years of the Ming, it is fitting that people think of their distant kin and home towns. To put it differently, its mooncake time. The Autumn Festival (中秋節'jung chau jit').

Basically, moon viewing and moon worship, ancient shamanism and rejuvenatory concepts dating back over two millennia, harvest time, thanksgiving, gratitude, family, friends, and insurrection. All rolled into one giant ball of wax. Plus pastries.

Those of us who do not participate in religious practices focus mostly on the pastries.
The historical aspects too, but the pastries hold serious weight.


I gave some mooncakes (月餅 'yuet bing') to my downstair neighbors yesterday. She's SF Cantonese, he's East Coast Caucasian. Single yolk red bean paste (單黃豆沙 'daan wong dau saa') and double yolk lotus seed paste (雙黃蓮蓉 'seung wong lin yung').


Snarfing pastries is how I celebrate most festivals.
I'm not really a family feast type of man.
Uncle Stinky, a bachelor.




==========================================================================
NOTE: Readers may contact me directly:
LETTER BOX.
All correspondence will be kept in confidence.
==========================================================================

Thursday, October 26, 2017

MOONCAKES IN MANILA

A friend brought back some mooncakes from Manila recently. They are from a bakery that I went into, once, and only vaguely remember: Salazar Bakery, 783 Ongpin Street, Binondo, Manila, 1006 Metro Manila, Philippines. Apparently they're bigger and better than ever before, as they now have shiny modern branches all over town.

They are famous for their hopia, tikoy.
Plus biscuits, and mooncakes.


達華餅店的月餅

The Chinese handle of the bakery (達華 'lin waa') means "attaining splendour". Like many Chinese business names it expresses a hope, an aspiration, and an eloquent combination of propitious terms.
And, given their quality and success, it is apposite.

A long time ago I was in Manila. I particularly remember the torrential rain, and paddling into the kitchen late at night for another glass of tea and a bit of mooncake. Three different places and times, three different families.

All of them were Chinese. One family spoke Mandarin, Hokkien (which may have been the 泉州 dialect of 閩南話), Cantonese (three members only), Tagalog, and English. One commonly used Cantonese, Tagalog and Cebuano, English, and German. And one spoke English primarily, plus various dialects of Chinese, and Tagalog.

[Different languages can be very important to people's self-definitions, and in the Manila context that means the more tongues the merrier. One aged gentleman explained himself (in English) as a Tagalog-speaking Fujianese Chinese from Ilocos, with great facility in Italian (!), and a fair ability in Spanish.
But what I best remember is his fluency in Latin.
He had, at one time, been a priest.]


At that time of year (中秋節 'jong chau jit') they all had mooncakes (月餅 'yuet bing'), and there was a thermos of tea in the kitchen at all times.
Darkness, silence, hot tea, mooncake.
That which is lovely.


For a few years in North Beach I used a humongous tea thermos, and because the nearest bakery was a block away, mooncakes during September and October were a constant.
Which they still are.

[Mooncakes are big and thick, approximately four inches across and two deep. A thin baked crust surrounds a rich filling, usually lotus seed paste (蓮蓉 'lin yong') or red bean paste (豆沙 'dau saa', with a salted egg yolk (蛋黃 'daan wong') embedded within recalling the harvest moon. The egg yolk adds to the density of taste most marvelously. You can also get them with two egg yolks, and various other fillings are also common. I prefer the double egg lotus seed: 雙黃白蓮蓉月餅 ('seung wong baak lin yong yuet bing').]


The climate in Manila is very much like the unseasonable warmth in San Francisco, between eight and ninety degrees, such as we are having now. The humidity is much worse, though. Like wading through warm jello.
You can indeed get used to it, but you are often bedewed.
Your laundry needs to be done every day.
Frowst is a fact of life.


Chinese families patiently put up with their stinky white guests, and probably burn the sheets that he used after he has finally gone.


The mooncakes are excellent.
Thank you.




==========================================================================
NOTE: Readers may contact me directly:
LETTER BOX.
All correspondence will be kept in confidence.
==========================================================================

Friday, September 09, 2016

MOONCAKES, SAN FRANCISCO

The moon festival is a Chinese celebration on the fifteenth day of the eighth lunar month. This year it will be September 15. There's a whole bucket load of meaning and symbolism to the event, most of which you do not need to know, and would not pay any heed to whatsoever anyway.

So, in short, here are the most important things to keep in mind:


THE MOON FESTIVAL 

中秋節 ('jung chau jit')

Over three thousand years of tradition, worship in gratitude for the harvest.
Full moon.
There are stories.
Family togetherness.
Revolt against the foreigners.
Lanterns.
Eat mooncakes.


MOONCAKES 

月餅 ('yuet bing')

Mooncakes can be made with any number of fillings. Often they will contain a salted duck egg yolk, which makes them richer and adds complexity to the sweetness. Very delicious!

There are four kinds that in my mind you should consider:

單黃蓮蓉 ('daan wong lin yung'): single yolk lotus seed paste.
雙黃蓮蓉 ('seung wong lin yung'): double yolk lotus seed paste.
單黃豆沙 ('daan wong dau saa'): single yolk red bean paste.
雙黃豆沙 ('seung wong dau saa'): double yolk red bean paste.

Yes there are many others. And regional variations. But start with these.

Where might you buy them?


BAKERIES
餅家 ('bing kaa') 


THE AA BAKERY & CAFÉ
永興餅家茶餐廳 ('wing hing bing ka tsa tsan teng')
1068 Stockton Street
San Francisco, CA 94108
(415) 981-0123

EASTERN BAKERY
東亞餅家 ('tung ah bing ka')
720 Grant Avenue
San Francisco, CA 94108
(415) 433-7973

Both bakeries are famous for their mooncakes. The AA also has Hong Kong style milk-tea (港式奶茶 'gong sik naai chaa'), the Eastern is, additionally, famous for their coffee crunch cake.

Every bakery in Chinatown will have mooncakes.
Don't worry, you won't be left yearning.

If you do not have a chance to head into Chinatown, you can also purchase tins with four cakes apiece, made by several companies, available at many Chinese grocery stores out in the Richmond or Sunset.
A well-know imported brand is Wing Wah (榮華 、榮華餅家), from a company located in Yuen Long (元朗) in the New Territories.
Many people look forward to a tin.
It's a celebration.



I myself will NOT be buying a tin of mooncakes this year, as I am single, not particularly festive, and I feel fat.




==========================================================================
NOTE: Readers may contact me directly:
LETTER BOX.
All correspondence will be kept in confidence.
==========================================================================

Wednesday, August 20, 2014

THE UNINVOLVED MAN

Courtesy of an insensitive acquaintance, I am cognizant once more of all the holidays I am so un-vested in as to rather dislike hearing about them nowadays. This pursuant a favourite celebration which is coming up, that has the saving grace of being, for me, largely about food.
One item. High sugar, high fat, high cholesterol.
Choice of several traditional flavours.
Plus one, or two, or three.


中秋節或八月節

This year the moon festival will occur on Monday, September 8.

The traditional food is the mooncake, that being a large hockey puck consisting of thin pastry surrounding a sweet filling. The top is usually embossed with a design that evokes the season, or a lucky phrase and various lucky images.

The most traditional filling is lotus seed paste, but other common fillings are adzuki paste, five fruits and nuts, candied melon, and several others, all based on sugar, fat, and a flavour that goes with sugar and fat.

Traditionally, a whole salted egg yolk is in the centre, contributing its own wonderful richness to the whole. Nowadays, one can find versions with two egg yolks, or even three.

Think of it as an ancient energy bar.
But a whole lot better tasting.
Caloric excess.

Yes, the fifteenth day of the eighth lunar month has an immense overlay of family connotations, togetherness, rich folkloric tradition, home town memories, and all the rest of that good stuff, along with rebellion and conspiracy, which are also very popular tropes in Chinese culture.
But, being a Caucasian, for me it's all about the cake.
White people get to be kind of insensitive.
And anyhow, we lack culture.

Actually, I'm going to darn well ignore that family and home town business, seeing as I have little left of the first, and cannot really claim the second.

Lotus seed paste, with TWO salted egg yolks.
Yum babies, you betcha.



APPENDIX

The celebrations which now mean very little to me are listed below.

Chinese New Year.
Lantern Festival.
Superbowl Sunday.
Valentine's Day.
Carneval.
Purim.
Saint Patrick's Day.
Ching Ming.
Passover.
Easter.
The Queen's Day.
Bevrijdingsdag / Cinco de Mayo.
Mother's Day.
Gay Pride.
Father's Day.
Dragon Boat Festival.
Solstice.
Independence Day.
Bastille Day.
Rosh Hashanah.
Simchas Torah.
My Birthday.
Hallowe'en.
Dia de los Muertos.
Guy Fawkes Night.
Thanksgiving.
Saint Nicholas Eve.
Channukah.
Christmas.
Oud Jaar's Avond.

Most of these have special foods associated with them, and many are either community or family events embedded in specific cultures.
I'm a rather generic kind of fellow.
My bonds aren't very strong.
And I rain on parades.


PS. Already acquired two mooncakes, planning on more.
Don't stop me. I shall be on a roll.
Expect happy.



==========================================================================
NOTE: Readers may contact me directly:
LETTER BOX.
All correspondence will be kept in confidence.
==========================================================================

Sunday, August 17, 2014

MALARIA

Over a year ago I passed an old gentleman lying flat on his back in the street in Chinatown, while smoking my pipe one afternoon. No, I did not stop; he was being ably assisted by emergency personell, one of whom was keen to find out about his medications. The questions were being asked in Cantonese.

I do not know much about any ailments in Cantonese.
Mostly, my vocabulary is strongest about food.
Not the best subject, probably.
In that instance.

"Did you recently eat anything the ingredients of which, as well as the mode or preparation, might be suspected of having caused a sudden feeling of lassitude OR existential angst?"

“你近日食咗啲嘢,其中嘅成分或模式及準備方式樣,可能會被懷疑引起精神唔振嘅覺得或著存在焦慮突然感覺嘅咩?”

['Nei gan-yat sik-jo di ye, gei-jung ge sing-fan waak mou-sik gap juen-bei fong-sik-yeung, ho-nang wui pei waai-yi yan hei jing-san m-jan ge gok-tak, waak-je chuen-jai jiu-leui dat-yin gam gok ge me?']


Sounds a bit complicated. Best to simplify, given that he's tipped over.

And taking into account my miserable pronunciation.


"Hey! How's your gout then?"

喂,你嘅痛風病,而家點樣呀,老生?

['Wei, nei-ge tung-fung beng yi-kaa dim-yeung ah, lou-saang?']


On second thought, perhaps I am not the right person to make medical inquiries. Which, more or less, brings me right to the subject of Malaria.

From Wikipedia:
瘧疾,俗稱打擺子、打老張,是一種由瘧原蟲造成的全球性急性寄生蟲傳染病,通過瘧蚊傳播。獨特癥狀為間歇性發冷發熱。世界範圍內,呈現臨床癥狀的病例每年就在3億到5億之間,每年因患瘧疾死亡的人數在一到三百萬之間,其中大部分為兒童。兒童、孕婦、旅遊者和各地的新移民對本地流行的瘧原蟲免疫力較差,故是易患瘧疾的高危人群。瘧疾主要的流行地區是非洲中部、南亞、東南亞及南美北部的熱帶地區,這其中又以非洲的疫情最甚。

口服或肌肉注射奎寧是一種有效方法。20世紀中期以後也出現了一些新的藥物,中國科學家研製的青蒿素有很好的抗瘧疾效果。不過一些瘧疾也發展出抗藥性。


"Malaria, colloquially known as "fighting tremors" or "fighting Old Chang", is a global acute parasitic infection caused by the malaria parasite, which is spread by the Anopheles mosquito. The disease is characterized by intermittent fever and chills. Cases worldwide each year showing clinical symptoms number from 300 million to 500 million, the annual number of deaths suffering from malaria between are one to three million, most of whom are juveniles. New immigrant children, pregnant women, tourists and others with low or no immunity to the parasite are particularly at a risk. Malaria is endemic in Central Africa, South Asia, Southeast Asia and tropical regions of the northern part of South America, but the hardest hit region is Africa by far."

"Oral or intramuscular quinine is an effective treatment method. After the mid-20th century, there were also some new drugs; Chinese scientists have developed a very good antimalarial from artemisinin. However, some strains have developed drug resistance."

[Key vocabulary:  瘧疾 'yuek jat': malaria; intermittent fever + illness, sickness; hate.  俗稱 'juk ching': commonly referred to, vulgarly known (as).  打擺子、打老張 'daa bai ji, daa lou Cheung': hitting tremors, hitting old Chiang.  瘧原蟲 'yuek yuen chung': malaria origin bug; plasmodium.  造成 'chou sing': cause, bring about.  全球性 'chuen kau sing': global, world-wide.  急性 'gap sing': acute.  寄生蟲 'gai saang chung': parasite, parasitic.  傳染病 'chuen yim beng': infectious disease.  通過 'tung gwo': by means of.  瘧蚊 'yuek man': malaria mosquito; anopheles.  傳播 'chuen bo': disseminate.  獨特 'duk dak': having the characteristic of, distinguished by.  間歇 'gaan hit': interval cease; stop while, intermittent.  發冷 'faa ling': feel chill.  發熱 'faa yit': feel heat.  範圍內 'faan wai noi': pattern encircle inside; within the scope or range of.  臨床 'lam chong': approach framework or parameters; clinical.  每年 'mui nin': each year.  患 'waan': suffer.  死亡 'sei mong': dead loss, die perish.  人數 'yan sou': person number, people count.  其中 'gei chung': that which + among, central; including, amongst which.  大部 'daai bou': great section; majority.  兒童 'yi tung': children.  孕婦 'yan fu': pregnant woman.  旅遊者 'leui yau che': journey roam agent; travelling person, tourist.  新移民 'san yi man': new shift people; recent migrants.  本地 'pun dei': original earth; local, native.  流行 'lau hang': flow, drift + walk, travel, move; spread, disperse, flow about.  免疫力 'man yik lik': evade pestilence power; immunity.  較差 'gaau chaai'; comparatively wrong; mediocre, rather faulty or flawed.  地區 'dei keui': earth area; region, district, area.  非洲中部 'fei jau chung bou': Africa central sector.  南亞 'naam (ng)aa'; Southern Asia.  東南亞 'dung naam (ng)aa'; east south Asia.  南美北部 'naam mei pak bou': south America north sector.]


I don't know why I started reading about malaria recently. Possibly it was because my apartment mate had a fit when she saw a mosquito the other day, maybe it is a potent association with certain smells.
Some types of incense drive away mosquitoes.
Among them are aquilaria woods.

I've never had malaria, and I do not intend to ever catch it either.
Living in San Francisco I am not at risk.

Never the less, I have both aquilaria wood incense and a mosquito net.
The resinous punkum has a pleasant old-timey fragrance, the gauze makes night-time dreamier.


In the year 1094, the great scholar and poet Su Tung-po (蘇東坡) was sent south to Guangdong province, with the express purpose that he should die of the miasmas and tropical diseases there and thus cease to be a nuisance to the clique then holding power in the government.
He survived six long years among the colourful birds, jungly denizens, and howling langurs south of the passes. Sadly, he died on the way home in 1101 C.E.


中秋節 CHUNG JAU JIT

The mid-autumn festival is coming up once more, this year it's on the eighth of September. Soon mooncakes will be available again, and people will be travelling home to spend the time with family. The astute reader will readily understand the mental association that brought this up; Su tung-po wrote some lovely poems about the season, which are still quoted today. Unfortunately they are rather hard to translate well.
Forgive me, I shan't even make the attempt.



"Su Shi". Licensed under Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Su_Shi.jpg#mediaviewer/File:Su_Shi.jpg



==========================================================================
NOTE: Readers may contact me directly:
LETTER BOX.
All correspondence will be kept in confidence.
==========================================================================

Tuesday, September 17, 2013

CHINESE BAKERIES ARE AWESOME!

At an hour when, remarkably, I was fast asleep, an internet-reader discovered my blog, and was quite pleased. As a blogger I am naturally tickled pink when someone is quite pleased by what they find here.
It's one of the main joys of blogging.

Anonymous commented:
"Stumbled upon your blog, it's awesome. But more importantly, where ARE the best lao po bing 老婆餠 in SF?"

The post underneath which he or she appended their remark was CHINATOWN BAKERIES: DOW SA BING AND OTHER BING THINGS, written in January 2011.


"Stumbled upon your blog, it's awesome. But more importantly, where ARE the best lao po bing 老婆餠 in SF?"


Dear Anonymous commenter,

Thank you!

For me, the very best lou poh beng (老婆餠) in the city are down on Jackson Street at Yummy Bakery.

人仁西餅麵包 YUMMY BAKERY & CAFÉ
607 Jackson Street, San Francisco, CA 94133.
415-989-8388.

But, in all honesty, I have had better ones. There's something about the air here, and the available ingredients, that affects taste.
- - -



老婆餠

Yummy is one of my favourite places, as it is a friendly, bright, clean, and comfortable small bakery, where I can always be assured of a cup of Hong Kong Style milk-tea (港式奶茶 'gong-sik naai-cha', also called 香港奶茶 'heung-gong naai-cha'). Their lou poh beng are pretty darn good, and come in two sizes. In addition to the old wife cookies (老婆餠), they have a wide variety of other treats, which I have enumerated here: Tea and something yummy.

At least once a week I will head down there to spend a pleasant half-hour over snackiepoos. Doing so is very important for the mental health.
At present, like all Chinatown bakeries, they are also selling mooncakes, it being the appropriate season for that.

Yummy Bakery takes pride in what they do.
Justifiably, and very much so.
It is a good place.



Another bakery of which I am fond -- and, remarkably, they ALSO do milk-tea and lo po beng -- is Blossom Bakery right in the center of Chinatown.

幸福餅家 HANG FUK BENG KAA
BLOSSOM BAKERY
133 Waverly Place, between Clay and Washington.
San Francisco, CA 94108.
415-391-8088

Early in the week I would usually head over there for a lotus-seed pastry (蓮蓉餅 lin-yong bing) and a cuppa, but lately I've grown fond of their charsiu sou (叉烧酥 barbecue pork filled rolls), and their curry puff (咖喱角 gaa-lei kok) are also very tasty. The charsiu sou are larger than elsewhere and the flaky turn-over crust is to my mind utterly delightful: airy, fragile, multiple tissue-thin layers, all nice and crumbly crumbly, crunchy-munchy.

It's an old-timey looking place. Clean, but well-worn. Many of the middle-aged gentlemen who head there after work are Toishanese, still adapting to America, but doing so gracefully. They are no longer the young hotshots they once were, but calmer settled adults.
They're well-tempered, and they'll leave you your privacy.
Many of them have known each other for a while.
There might be some gossip exchanged.
Don't worry, no one you know.



There are many other Chinese bakeries in San Francisco, as much of the population is of East Asian heritage. Out in the avenues, in 'New Chinatown' on Clement Street and in the Sunset District, as well as oddly enough on Mission Street, and elsewhere. Seeing as I hang out in the downtown, I tend to frequent the bakeries and coffee shops of the original neighborhood.
But I encourage exploration; the journey of a thousand munchies starts with a single bite.
Who knows, one of them may have the best low pou bing in the universe.
And that discovery will be dynamite.


Chinese Bakeries are awesome.



==========================================================================
NOTE: Readers may contact me directly:
LETTER BOX.
All correspondence will be kept in confidence.
==========================================================================

Thursday, September 23, 2010

IN MID AUTUMN

If you live in San Francisco you know about panhandling. San Francisco is an expensive place to live, and some people end up here without the necessary support systems. San Francisco can be a very hard town.

I’ll give money to panhandlers – when someone is desperate, it seems utterly heartless to pretend they do not even exist. A dollar here and there really won’t inconvenience me, but it enables them to continue for a while longer, and maybe things will turn out better for them.

Yes, a few probably intend to spend that money on booze or illicit substances. Given their circumstances, I have to assume that even that choice is the result of an informed decision.
Their life, and their need for something to distract themselves from it - anything to make conditions bearable.


THEY HAVE FACES

A few years ago a new person showed up around the corner from my office. It’s a busy street in the evening, when people head towards the Bart station, so the panhandling chances there are relatively excellent.

This person was an old Chinese woman, barely four and a half feet tall, with white hair, and a very gentle intelligent face – in her youth she must have been just about the prettiest thing. She had small gnarled hands that had clearly done much work, and would have preferred to yet be working.
A very delicate and vulnerable woman, but very much alive – her eyes still sparkled. She could only speak a few words of English, and those so badly that context had to make clear what she said.
She was, with extreme and almost paralyzing embarrassment, asking strangers for spare change.


HI, HOW ARE YOU?

I did what I always do in cases like that. I smiled, gave her some dollar bills, and wished her a pleasant evening. One has to invest such transactions with dignity and a semblance of normalcy. Things like this feel much better for both people if done gracefully.

Two or three evenings a week she would be at the corner timidly asking the rushing pedestrians for coins. The vast majority studiously ignored her, hurrying by as if no one were there, and they themselves were very important people late for an appointment.
Every time I saw her I gave her some money. While having a smoke near the end of the day I would walk down the street to see if she was there – it’s good to see someone smile.

She wasn’t always there, as she probably did receive a monthly cheque. Which, in San Francisco, does not go very far. But being so incapable of speaking English, as well as shy, she was in no position to figure out the complexities of the system. Funds would run out in a week or so.
I believe that she had been employed in the garment factories (sweatshops) that used to be in Chinatown, and once manufacturing went overseas she was left without many options. There are a fair number of middle-aged and elderly women like that – they came to this country years ago, and found work among the safety of other Cantonese speakers. Where many stayed.
The need to earn a living, the pressure of raising a family, the isolation, all prevented them from learning English.

Pride, stubbornness, and a sense of what is proper all conspire to keep many such people from forcing themselves to rely on their kin, if they have any.

The old traditionally nurture those who are younger than them, and most elderly Cantonese women will put aside candy and food to give to young relatives when they visit. Some women are so tied up in this that they will spend far more on food for their grandchildren than on essentials for themselves.
Elderly Cantonese men will put on their one threadbare good suit to visit their offspring’s families for a few short hours, bringing along treats – which may have cost them much of their budget for the rest of the month.
Being unable to feed people who are younger is unbearably shameful for a Chinese person of senior status
It is better to starve, than to neglect obligations – especially this one.
This is so programmed into many old-fashioned people that going against it is impossible.

Additionally, maintaining a pretence that they are able and secure is so fundamental to their sense of self-worth that elderly immigrant Cantonese often successfully hide precisely how desperate they are from their grown children, the children are so used to respecting the dignity of their elders that they are far too scared to ask any difficult questions.
And beyond the family no-one wants to shame their friends and neighbors by pointing out to their relatives what might have been obvious if everyone wasn’t so good at maintaining a facade. Cantonese parents do not want to be a burden to their children, sabotaging the next generation’s success by having themselves failed. The sad thing is that many of them have indeed failed in comparison - the Americanized children are more likely to succeed than their parents.
The generation gap is not only cultural and linguistic – crippling enough! - it is often also economic.
In consequence, there is frequently a measure of estrangement in Chinese-American families that baffles outsiders, who don’t understand that it is precisely because of the distance between parents and children that safe comfort levels can be maintained for all concerned.


THE PERSON ON THE CORNER

Over the months I found out a bit more about the woman – her home-town dialect and my movie-learnt Tsim-Tung goomba patois were not too very far apart, and I can sound like I understand the proper protocols when speaking with the elderly.
She shared cramped living quarters with another woman, and she had a grown-up daughter far away who was happily married. She did not mention her own husband, so I assume that he had passed away years before. She knew how to sew, and she could make coats, shirts, and pants – especially shirts and pants. She would so much like to work again.
She hadn’t seen her daughter in a long time, but they wrote to each other regularly and occasionally talked on the phone. She really wanted to see her daughter, and her grandchild …….. but her daughter couldn’t visit as yet (translation: the old lady must have been paddling furiously to keep her daughter from finding out just how difficult her situation had become).

Nearly every week she would mention her daughter. She was very proud that her daughter had a nice husband, a bright child, a decent life.
She even sent the kid a present - she was on the corner every evening that month. It must have seriously depleted her funds. She looked far more vulnerable than usual.


One day she demonstrated something new she had learned to say in English. She had had a lot of practice, even though it was a word so very recently acquired. Lung cancer.
She had only two or three weeks left to live; she had delayed going to the doctor for so long that it was entirely untreatable. In a few days she was going into the hospital. Her daughter was flying in, with her grandchild. She was distraught that her daughter was spending so much money – but also very glad that she would finally see them again. She was extremely happy.
She thanked me sweetly for helping her so many times. She would have liked to have been able to do something in return, but ………!

I never saw her again.


CHONG CHAU JIT

Yesterday was mid-Autumn, the Moon Festival. For Chinese people, the Moon Festival is a time to spend with family, and many will travel back to their village or the place where they are from to be with their loved ones. Those who are far away think longingly of their own places and their relatives, and fondly indulge in remembering those who are dear to them. Being able to visit kin means incredibly much to people at this time, family is everything.
In their dreams they go back home.

Her daughter and grandchild surely remembered her this week, and will have placed some mooncakes for her on the family altar.



==========================================================================
NOTE: Readers may contact me directly:

LETTER BOX.
All correspondence will be kept in confidence.
==========================================================================

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

MOONCAKES! YAY! MOONCAKES!

The Chinese mid-Autumn festival (中秋節 Chong Chau Jit: fifteenth day of the eighth lunar month) falls today this year. It has long been one of my favourite holidays, but not for most reasons that move the Chinese.
Yes, I appreciate the warm family-connotations, the traditional harvest and home motiefs, and even the symbolism that has in three millennia accreted. Even the connection with the rebellion against the Mongols (元朝 Yuen Chiu: Yuan dynasty, 1280–1368 CE) has immense charm - who isn't stirred by the encouragement to slaughter barbarians?

[八月十五殺韃子 "Baat-yuet sahp-ng saa Tat-jee!" Eighth month fifteen, kill Tatars!]

At present, whacking foreigners is NOT part of the festivities. Murder really isn't a traditional method of celebration among civilized people, at least not anymore. And I'm okay with that. Though sometimes it does seem a pity.

My reasons for enjoying the Mid-Autumn Festival are rather simple and self-indulgent. Childish and pedestrian even.


YUET BING 月餅

What I really like are the pastries - I've always been inordinately fond of mooncakes. They're only available at this time of year.
Long ago I would stockpile boxes of them, to enjoy weeks or months later after they had become unavailable. As my supply dwindled, I'd become more careful of my precious hoard, finally savouring the last one sometime in January or February. It would not be nearly as good as ones eaten in September and October, but it was the last one for a very long time. And therefore, still utterly delicious.

Remarkably, most Caucasians I know aren't particularly taken by mooncakes.
Why is this? Is there something wrong with them?

Maybe it's that all-encompassing American cultural-whiteness. It affects the tastebuds. They don't like raw herring either. Weird.


The two most popular types of mooncake are double yolk refined lotus seedpaste (雙黃白蓮蓉月餅 seung wong pak lien yong yuet bing) and double yolk red bean-paste (雙黃豆沙月餅 seung wong dow sa yuet bing).

[NOTE: Preserved egg-yolk (鹹鴨蛋 haahm-ngaap dan) - One or more whole duck egg yolks nestled in the filling, which adds richness and a slightly salty note, accentuating the sweetness. It the most luxurious and expensive ingredient - the price is higher for mooncakes that have egg yolk.]


Both the lotus seed (蓮蓉 lien yong) paste and the red bean paste (豆沙 dow sa - literally, bean mud) are sweet and slightly rich. Both are very popular flavours for pastries. Dow sa consists of ground boiled azuki beans with sugar and oil.
There's also Ng-yan (五仁): five nut-kernels: pumpkin seed, melon seed, sesame, almond, and walnuts or peanuts) which usually has chunks of candied wintermelon (糖冬瓜 tong tung gwa) mixed in.


BEFORE THEY'RE ALL GONE ...

This time of year there are many imported brands in square tins available at Chinese stores in the Bay Area, even though locally made mooncakes are just as good, and often better.

The best sources for locally made mooncakes are Mee Mee (美美餅食公司) on Stockton, and the Eastern Bakery (東亞餅家) on Grant.


MEE MEE BAKERY 美美餅食公司
1328 Stockton Street (between Vallejo and Broadway)
San Francisco, CA 94133.
(415) 362-3204

EASTERN BAKERY 東亞餅家
720 Grant Avenue (btwn Sacramento and Clay, corner of Commercial Alley)
San Francisco, CA 94108
(415) 433-7973


Now, though I thoroughly recommend both businesses listed above, most of my mooncakes this year as every year will be imported. The reason being the handsome tins that they come in, four cakes per container.
Local bakeries use decorated boxes, Hong Kong and Taiwanese manufacturers package the pastries in tins.
I'm a bit odd that way - I like the tins too. Useful. And stackable.

----------------------------------------------------------------

POST SCRIPTUM

If you are Jewish or vegetarian, please read the label on the tin or box carefully. There may be treifigkeit present, especially in the dough, and it might also be present in the filing. The Chinese tend to use lard shortening as their baking grease of choice - it makes pastries scrumptious, crispy, flaky, besides adding a yummy mouth-feel.
Pork products have the status of minhag. Just like shrimp and lobster. If you are Chinese.



==========================================================================
NOTE: Readers may contact me directly:

LETTER BOX.
All correspondence will be kept in confidence.
==========================================================================

Search This Blog

GRITS AND TOFU

Like most Americans, I have a list of people who should be peacefully retired from public service and thereafter kept away from their desks,...