BEAN SPROUT ECHO

We all have foods that awaken memories. Some dishes, because of many different associations, have a resonance that makes our enjoyment transcend the mere taste alone, uplifting both the ingredients and the experience.

Often these are very simple things, which we don't often think of, and sometimes go for months without eating.

[NOTE: This post is brought to you by yesterday's lunch. Not by Roast Duck, not by Dimsum, not even by Pear Kugel, but by simple take-out food hastily chosen. It was a fortuitous choice. I could have had the halibut instead, but I'm glad I didn't.]



CHOW FUN

A dish available at almost any Cantonese restaurant that caters to office-workers during lunch, and in itself quite simple: chow fun (炒粉) - fried ribbon noodles.
All that's really required are broad flat rice flour noodles made by cutting up steamed plain cheung fan, plus bean sprouts, scallion, and just a little soy sauce. Often beef is added, but it isn't really essential. Other meats can be used instead.

[Note: to make the noodles at home, follow the cheung fan batter recipe here:
http://atthebackofthehill.blogspot.com/2011/11/left-over-turkey-cheung-fan-rice-flour.html, pouring it out onto the steaming platter thinner than normal, with no filling added. Then cut it into broad strips. They can also be purchased in Chinatown, but may be hard to find elsewhere.]

The key to the dish is timing and heat. The noodles should be unripped, the scallion not browned, the beansprouts perfectly crisp and sweet. It takes a deft hand and a hot pan to do it right.
Good results are heaven, bad results should be tipped into the garbage and not sent out to the customer.
And yes, it really IS something you would be better off not preparing at home, so I shan't even assay a recipe. There are no fail-safe instructions. Get it at a restaurant instead.

It was very good. Perfect aroma too. I wonder if they can do that consistently at the place where I got that portion, or whether it was a fluke.
Obviously I'll have to have it again.


I'll also have to find a place where I can get char kway teow. Probably not anywhere near the financial district, though, as 炒粿條 is pretty much unknown in the United States.
Might even have to make it at home.
I'm very particular about what I like.
Shrimp paste, scallion, bean sprouts, shrimp, soy sauce, pork fat, egg.
Ginger and garlic.
Plus a little chopped ham or charsiu.
With a hefty squeeze of lime juice and a dollop of sambal on the plate.

If I make it, it will be more than one person can eat. Reason being that one egg in a single serving, with the shrimp and porky bits added, presents too much of a good thing. And I do not like to leave half-eggs in the fridge.

Maybe chopped roast duck instead of ham or charsiu.
Still leaves the same problem with the egg.


One plate Char kway teow, with a frothy green drinkie.
Fairly sure that's as close to heaven as you can get.


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