GOAT CITY: REFLECTIONS ON fOOD

Today's SFGate has an article about Yank Sing, a dim sum restaurant in the financial district that some locals sneer at because it's a bit higher price than many dimsummeries, and has a bougie ambiance. I do not sneer. I appreciate it for what it is. A welcome boat in a storm, an emergency room in the middle of a battlefield, and damned fine place to have a civilized lunch. I have eaten fabulously well there.

Consider the options: do I want to risk foodpoisoning at a hipster burrito chain that's had a health scandal half a dozen times in fifteen years, or dig into some excellent dim sum? Should I go stand in line at a salad joint that charges fancy prices for artistically presented rabbit food, or dig into some excellent dim sum? Do I want to surround myself by yuppies swilling very mediocre cappucinos with their toasted mediterranean eggplant sammiches while yakking on their cellphones, or dig into some excellent dim sum?


Do I want a splendid carnitas burrito with salsa picante regular rice no beans at a taco truck, freshly made by someone who still doesn't speak English after TWO WHOLE MONTHS in the States, or dig into some purely excellent dim sum?

Actually, both of those options sound fine.


一盅兩件
"One tea steeping and two items" (describes the perfect lunch, in Central).


Every single time I've gone to Yank Sing I've had a wonderful time. There should be large sign outside the place with a huge red cross indicating that restorative life saving treatment is offered within. If you've read more than a few of my little scribbles on this blog, you realize that I speak passable Cantonese and tend to eat Chinese food a lot, and that I hang out in Chinatown often, because it's sort of my home neighborhood. And also, as a typical Dutch cheapskate, I don't like spending money. But I like Yank Sing, and recognize that they do a fine job and offer lovely altenatives, even if you can escape the Financial District and eat elsewhere.

If your skeevy cousins from New York are in town, go have Thai.

When your favourite elderly uncle from Vancouver visits, go have some excellent dim sum. Heck, take the day off and drive him and the brood all over, visit Golden Gate Park, the museums, and the bridge. But have some excellent dim sum at Yank Sing first.
I rather wish they were within walking distance of where I usually hang out.
But there are some nice alleyways nearby where one can smoke.


YANK SING
49 Stevenson Street
San Francisco, CA 94105
415-541-4949


That's easy walking distance from the old office, and where the pipe and cigar crowd used to hang about around lunch time. As well as where a good taco truck was parked. Near Market Street and the Montgomery BART station. Two blocks from a Peet's, if you needed real coffee instead of that Seattle yuppie slop.

The only reason for the pipe illustration above is that I've had it longer than dim sum. Bought it while I was still a student. It's an excellent smoker, and I'll probably have it with me the next time I have dim sum. It will be a splendid afternoon.
Lazy. Golden. Well-spent.



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